Trekking in beautiful Patagonia
Trip Start
Mar 15, 2006
1
7
42
Trip End
May 30, 2007
Torres del Paine National Park,
Chile
Tuesday, April 4, 2006
The first day started out rather tough, as at this point I was carrying all my food for the trek and it begins with a fairly steep uphill climb. There are a number of routes you can take in the park, but by far the most popular is the `Wī. This crams in the biggest draws in between 4 and 5 days. As I only had a small amount of time because of planning to head back into Argentina briefly to see the Perito Moreno Glacier, and having a flight on the 8th, I decided to miss the last days walking, as this also takes you to a Glacier.
Overall we were lucky with the weather. The first day was mainly sunny, though there was quite a ferocious wind blowing at times. On this day we were able to dump our packs half way up the route at a Refugio we were to stay the night in, and climb the remaining distance to the impressive view of the Torres (or 3 towers).
The second days trek was to be the shortest, just 5 hours hiking, so thankfully it was this day that the rains decided to come in. It wasnīt great whilst we were walking, but as soon as we arrived at the next Refugio the heavens opened, and we watched as a succesion of unlucky souls appeared liked drowned rats around the bend.
On my third day I had decided that if the weather from the previous day had carried over, I was going to walk straight to the finish point 4 hours away in order to return.
My cold but beautifully clear last night
Rising for our early started though, we found that everthing had passed and there was a beautiful sunrise appearing over the lake we had stayed next to.This would now be the longest day of my trek, at 8 hours. Walter and I got an early headstart over the others, as the sun slowly warmed the valley. A 51 year old Austrian, Walter moves more like a, well 24 year old I guess...only that would be me, and I didnīt. So while I did my best to keep the pace, we were treated to spectacular views back down the Valle Francčs.
Though it was the longest day, because of the glorious weather, it certainly didnīt feel like it. I had previously been feeling a little disappointed with the Park, after everything I had read about it, but this day thankfully turned my impression around. The autumnal colours were stunning when lit up, and to think that the many visitors who arrive in summer have to endure crowded footpaths and miss out on this sight!
The Park proved to be extortionately expensive. A nights stay in the refugios was costing 19,000 pesos a night and all you get for that is a matress - you must carry your sleeping bag. To put that in perspective, I could spend 5 nights at the hostel I had used in Puerto Natales with bedding and breakfast for the same price!!
With this in mind, I decided that due to the glorious weather of the last day, I would hire a tent at the last stop and camp for the night to save a little money (though this was still 10,000 pesos). That night the sky was so so clear, I lay on my back and looked up at the stars for ages. When you get this chance, away from the light pollution we have everywhere back home, it is simply stunning to see what is up there. The bands of the milkyway, and far galaxies all visible to the naked eye. Breathtaking.
Unfortunately, this also meant a cold cold night. Probably the coldest night I have ever experienced. Out in that big 3 man tent, I started out in boxer shorts and a T-Shirt in my sleeping bag, but by the time the sun rose, trousers, socks, a jumper, a jacket and a wooly hat had been added, and I was still freezing!
This day I finally said goodbye to the remaining boat passengers I had been with, as they were to carry on for the last stage, and waited for the catamaran to take me back. Once I got to the bus though I found two more couples I knew waiting there, and in the evening we went back to the Pizza restaurant we had visited before, where bizarrely, I found that everybody there had visited the little town I had lived in for the last couple of years - Burgess Hill. One couple was Spanish, the other Swiss. Small world!!
