Leaving the Lago

Trip Start Feb 01, 2006
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Trip End May 01, 2006


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Monday, March 6, 2006

We have had a hugely enjoyable week on Lake Atitlan where I attnded Spanish school and Paul lounged...(actually he cooked and did laundry.) One of the best things we did was splurge on a bungalow with a living room, dining room, kitchen, two bedrooms and a bathroom. It was expensive but well worth it! Paul made some excellent meals, I had light for studying and we had the luxury of agua caliente!

One of the most interesting things here is that in many of the towns on the lake, the men ( as well as the women and children) wear traditional clothing...and the variety and colour is outstanding!

We've had some great lancha trips around the lake to various villages, many of which are very strong on tradition. We have already mentioned Santiago, the home of Maximon whose shrine we visited. San Pedro is another cute village, but we didn't spend much time there. It seems to have replaced Pana as a Gringo hang out mostly full of people more interested in recreational drugs than history.


Santa Catarina and San Antonio are somehwat isolated eventhough they are stops on many of the tours of the Lake. The residents of Catarina make beautiful weavings and wear an aqua and purple costume. San Marcos is well known for its meditation and yoga centre and attracts the type of people that appreciate spiritual healing etc...

Santa Cruz seemed to be incredibly "tranquillo", largely because of the absence of electricity and running water!

Of course one of the saddest things about so many of the communities around the Lake is the clear evidence of the destruction by Hurricane Stan and the mudslides. Not only were many people kiled, but so many are still without homes. We have had long discussions , one in particular with Pablo Cumun, the director of an orphanage in San Pablo. We did not actually work at the orphanage, but did contribute for books for the 100 orphans who clearly have nothing. Nada! They are without parents, but also without homes and food. Kids of all ages are lucky to have pan y cafe or perhaps three tortillas por dia.

Even with all of this, Guatemalans have been helpful and polite. Almost always, they say "Buenos" first. They seem to like to get to know you and are defintely "unhurried" and it has been a real pleasure.

In our discussions at school about all of the NGOs and the government helping the communities, is seems that they don't even expect good government and that they just make the best of what comes their way. A great way to be!

Having said that, it is also very evident that there are two very disparate classes- a wealthy ladino class and a poor indigenous Maya population. Everyone we have talked to at any length seems to be interested in learning about other cultures, music, human rights and the role of women. This is one thing in particular the women want to talk about, probably since the role of women here is so tough! In places such as Huehue, families still pay anywhere from 1-5 million Q for a wife for their son!

It is all very interesting and we are loving Guatemala. We have returned to Antigua to climb Pacaya, one of the most active volcanos in the world. As much as we are loving it here, we have to move on, so we leave for El Salvador on Wednesday. More to come from there and Nicaragua!
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