Getting high in the highlands

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  Panajachel, Guatemala
Thursday, February 23, 2006

Hello from Panajachel in the Western Highlands of Guatemala!

This dramatic region runs from Antigua to the Mexican border-the hills are full of emerald green grass, cornfields and pines..and every village has a story. According to Quiche legend, Lake Atitlan was one of the four lakes that marked the corners of the world. Reminds us of the saying that even though we know the world is round, we are trying to visit all four corners!

We had heard that the lake was meant to be pretty awe-inspiring, and we weren't disappointed. It was formed when a volcano collapsed thousands of years ago, (a caldera)leaving a lake in a 15km wide crater, 1500m above sea level, surrounded by three huge volcanoes! Encircled by the green hills and volcanoes the water colour changes from emerald green to azure

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. At sunset the view across the lake as the sun disappears behind the volcanoes, is just amazing!

Panajachel is nicknamed Gringotenango since apparently it is one fo the oldest tourist hang outs, with people (ex pats) having stayed since the 60's and 70's. Despite this, it is still aculture built around maize (corn) and you can see cottage sset in the midst of gigantic corn fields. Furthermore, the Maya from the surrounding villages still come to sell their crafts.

Pana itself is not much, so we took a 'lancha' (small boat) accross the lake to a place called Santiago de Atitlan. The main reason for visiting Santiago, is to see 'Maximon'. At this point we should probably tell you who Maximon is. Although since no one seems to too sure of the facts, the legend is basically as follows:

Maximon (also known as San Simon) is worshipped as a god of sorts throughout the Mayan world. Exactly what religion he belongs to no one seems to be sure, but they certainly revere him, and go to him for advice, to pray, etc. His physical form takes the shape of a mannequin dressed according to local tradition - in Santiago this consists of brightly coloured clothes, with colourful ties and scarves around his neck. He also almost always has a huge cigar in his mouth, and a bottle of rum at his feet - lucky guy! Of course, Maximon being unable to actually drink or smoke himself, requires a 'helper', who is basically a village elder who is chosen to smoke and drink on Maximon's behalf.

Locals go to Maximon for advice, and in return for monetary or liquid offerings, they can light different coloured candles, representing different thoughts or occasions (i.e: red for good luck, black to wish someone harm, etc.) During Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week), Maximon is paraded through the streets, accompanied by a huge fiesta, and lots more rum and cigars

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!

In the case of Santiago, one household is chosen to house Maximon for an entire year, so when we arrived, it was just a case of asking 'Donde esta Maximon?', and for a few quetzales we were taken by a couple of local kids, through the winding streets of the village, to the 'man' himself - it is a very strange experience, walking into a local's home, to be greeted by an obviously drunk 'helper', and Maximon in the centre of the room, surrounded by flowers, candles, and offerings of rum, and tons of incense...and theres Maximon with 10 Q stuffed between his scarves, and a half smoked cigar between his lips!!

After a day in Santiago, it was back down to the dock to catch another boat to San Pedro where we expect to attend Spanish school starting Monday.

San Pedro seems to be the most touristy of the villages around the lake (there are 12 in total, each named after one of the 12 apostles) - western food, movies in the cafes during the evening, internet cafes, but it remains a very relaxing place with amazing views - plus it is the home of the school we hope to attend, Casa Rosario, and for a very good price you can get a room with private bathroom and a balcony overlooking the lake - a bargain

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!

We expect to spend the next few days exploring the lake and all of the other little villages such as San Marco and Santa Cruz before we start school on Monday.

One last thing: for those of you that are trying to follow based on our tentative itinerary, please note that based on a travel advisory from the Canadian government, our plans may change a bit.

It seems that crossing into El Salvador from Monterrico (at La Hachadura) which is what we expected to do.. is now somewhat unsafe, so you may see us head into San Salvador from Guatemala City.

Unfortunately that may mean wiping out much of El Salvador and going directly to Managua, Nicaragua. In the end, it all may be fine since it will allow us more time in Leon, Granada and on Isla de Ometepe before we head to Costa Rica!

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