Land of a million elephants
Trip Start
Feb 01, 2004
1
27
44
Trip End
Jun 01, 2004
Pakbeng and Luang Prabang,
Lao Peoples Dem Rep
Sunday, March 28, 2004
This dramatic change in the pace of life here was evident the moment we crossed from Chiang Khong Thailand into Huay Xai, Laos.
This is by far the most fascinating country yet! We spent twenty hours on the Mekong and saw only undeveloped land with mountains and forests, water buffalo, elephants, and friendly relaxed people in a very mellow atmosphere.
All of this was despite the fact that our boat was full of about 50 people, backpacks, sacks of rice, chickens, a puppy and a giant Mekong catfish
pb1
.We carved out a spot for ourselves on the floor and all was well until we were told that the boat could go no furtherbecause of low water and treacherous rapids. We ended up emptying the boat and walking a bit before we picked up another boat for the rest of the way to Pakbeng. As we walked among the sand dunes, we saw buffalo, fishermen, kids, and villagers panning for gold.
When we finally arrived in Pakbeng, all we wanted was food and a hot shower. Not to be...electricity was only available from 6:30 -10:30 p.m. each day and by the time we came back from eating, a candle was lit by our door and that was it for the night. At least we had a great night's sleep because it was so quiet!
We awoke in the wmorning to a misty little Hmong village and a market with the most friendly people ever. It is difficult to imagine that with so many boats full of farang (foreigners) each day that these people can still be so gracious. For 20 hours all along the river, they smiled and waved as we passed by.
This is where we had our first taste of dried water buffalo which is a staple of Laos.
The slow boat was an excellent way to experience the Mekong, however with 20 plus hours on a hard wooden seat or floor, sharing your space with all manner of rodents and fish, it is not likely we will do it again anytime soon. We are looking forward to a nice break in Luang Prabang.
