Intriguing and Historical

Trip Start Feb 01, 2004
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Trip End Jun 01, 2004


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Flag of Malaysia  ,
Sunday, February 8, 2004

We had a spectacular trip here from Singapore. We decided to walk (by the way, our packs are working our great)to the local bus station, take an express bus to Johor Bahru and then buy our onward ticket in ringitts (rather than SD dollars.) This turned out to be a good decision, because other travellers who left later, but took the express (Singapore-Melaka) sat in causeway traffic for several hours! The ride from JB to Melaka in air conditioned comfort for three hours was only 12 ringitts, 30 sens (about $4.00 CAD)

The bus was more comfortable than we would have thought and the scenery was great! Nothing but palm groves, mountains and the occasional worker with the traditional conical hat and oxen cart!

We had only one "comfort break" en route...here in Malyasia it seems that most restrooms have toilets of both the western and the squat variety...although we have not really figured out this whole "caybok" (butt sprayer) thing! A famosa
A famosa
!

When we arrived we had to walk from the express bus station to the local to catch a bus out to our guest house. We asked a young man who spoke some English and he bascially led us the whole way. What an introduction to Malaysian hospitality!! Not only did he get us on the bus, but he got off with us, he walked us to the guest house, and asked if there was anything else he could help us with. And, did we mention, he paid for the bus?! He would not allow us to pay, would not take a drink or lunch or anything.

Melaka is absolutely stunning. In the 15th century it was one of the greatest trading ports in the South East. It has had lots of European incursions over the years (Portuguese, Dutch and English) and is very proud of its independence. Our guest house is in a very old home of traditional Malay construction (part indoors, part outdoors.) For example, to get to the toilet and shower, you need to go outside across a rooftop.

The colonial architecture is fabulous and once again, the food is ridiculously cheap and fabulous. (Beer is still really expensive though, the country being predominantly Muslim.)

For you foodies, last night at Newton Food Court we had 16 pieces of pork and chicken satay with cucumber and onion salad and an incredible peanut sauce for 6 ringitts, 40 sens, which is about $2.75 CAD Chinese Temple
Chinese Temple
! This morning we had a roti canai breakfast at an Indian cafe in the historical square district with coffee and it cost 3 ringitts and 20 sens. This translates to about $1.50 CAD!!!

While out and about everyone wants to say "hello," likely to practice English. This morning we were asked to join a "jog" with a group of local government officials and stopped by a young man wanting to talk. It turns out he collects stamps and when we asked for his address and offered to send Canadian stamps, he wanted to guide us around and returned with oranges as gifts (left over from Chinese New Year...)

We visited churches, temples and museums and have relaxed for the last day or two. It is certainly a different pace from Singapore. This afternoon we "took advantage" of the rooftop hotel pool at some ritzy place (Hotel Equatorial) down the road from our guest house. We meant to take a bumboat ride down river, but found out it only runs if 8 people want to go and we were the only ones...so we will try again tomorrow. It sounds like a great trip where you can see old godown (river warehouses), fish markets and traditional kampung (village houses.)

We leave on Tuesday morning for Kuala Lumpur and have decided to then head into the Cameron Highlands, one of the best known hill stations in one of the oldest rainforests in the world! (altitude: 1500 metres) After that, we'll want to be beach-bound and plan to head to Pulau Pangkor, where it will be primarily a laze on the beach operation after two busy weeks of travel.
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