Sugar Roads, Dissertation Shifts and Dating...

  Kingston, Jamaica
Friday, October 17, 2008

Dear Friends and Family:
I have become convinced that the roads in Kingston are made out of sugar. ;) Every time it rains, the roads seemingly disintegrate. They become gushing, rushing rivers, bubbling and frothing a chocolate brown wake over the aligning curbs. Red-plated Corolla taxis and mini-buses expertly float in between huge chasms and potholes. High-heeled pedestrians in business suits hike up their pant legs or skirts to maneuver between the automobile freighters and deeper sections of the gurgling washes.

By morning, everyday, though, the rivers have disappeared. The sugar roads have been reconstructed and smoothed over, and the transit system is ready for the next rush hour.

The daily reconstruction of these roads reminds me of the resilience of this country, the "We've lived through centuries of slavery, an IMF-raped economy, political unrest and one hurricane after another. We don't have the money to really fix this road properly (as 70% of each our country's dollars goes towards our international debt), but we're going to use the materials we've got, and pull together the labour force needed to slap that band-aid on." At the end of each day, as Tings and Red Stripes are popped open amidst tired construction crews, clouds are gathering for another storm.

"Wagwan?" Someone may say. This is life in Jamaica.

THE DISSERTATION SHIFT:
Two months in, I have fallen in love with this experience. The past three weekends have seen my roommate and I bent over our laptops, punching out papers and presentations for courses, scanning journal articles, reviewing historical texts, and drafting new dissertation introduction drafts.

The latter, for me, shifted pretty dramatically this past month. Upon finding out that media tools are not as much inaccessible in Jamaica as under-utilized in the country, my original dissertation topic (re: the impact of media on fundraising efforts for agencies that serve HIV-positive orphans) lost much of its allure. My new topic focuses on a more programmatic and topical issue: the need for adult-preparation services for HIV-positive orphans transitioning out of residential care.

Without families to rely on, orphans in residential care are "aged out" of the system at 18, regardless if they have a home, job, bank account or support system. The program where I intern, "DTC", is the only residential facility for HIV-positive orphans in Jamaica. Last month, I asked the director what the program was doing to transition these youth into adulthood and to emancipate them into independent-living. The director replied that such services had not been created yet. Up until now, none of the teens had lived long enough to graduate from high school, much less live in the community on their own.

With the introduction of accessible and government-funded antiretroviral medications in Jamaica (through the Global Fund and the Clinton HIV/AIDS Initiative), though, that reality has radically changed. Orphans originally given a "death sentence" with the virus are now being given a chance at life. DTC even recently altered its focus from being a "hospice" for children with HIV/AIDS to a "home" for children with HIV/AIDS. According to the director, the program is only now in a place where wonderful questions like, "How do we transition these youth into adulthood? What resources do they need to not only survive but thrive on their own?" exist.

Formal emancipation services for orphans (regardless of HIV status) are very limited in Jamaica currently. My dissertation will be three-pronged, examining what orphans theoretically need as they age out of residential care, what orphans with HIV/AIDS additionally need as they transition into adulthood, and what emancipation services are already informally in place in Jamaica. At the end of the dissertation, recommendations will be made for transitional services in the country, and specifically, for the youth aging out of the DTC facility.

To know that this study will directly impact teens I know is an intensely motivating factor. As one agency worker said, this will not be a report that "gathers dust on a shelf. This will be a building block for the system to be changed." According to leading researchers in the field, it is one of the top five priorities in the country today for orphans with HIV/AIDS and one that must be looked at now. Thus far, I've felt honored to be interviewing individuals in the field, HIV activists, directors at the Ministry of Health, and executive directors at US-based agencies. The most important figures in the study (the kids!), though, have not been interviewed yet. I am most excited to interview them, to hear what they have to say; to listen to their dreams, fears, hopes for the future; and to understand what they think they need as they head into the world.

This is an exciting time. I am thrilled to be a part of this study, and honored to be walking alongside these children who have conquered the odds, and these agency workers and doctors who have dedicated their lives to the compassionate service of them.

LIFE OUTSIDE OF THE BOOKS...
REGGAE BOYZ HEADING TO THE CUP:

Jamaica vs. Mexico - World Cup Contending Game

My peers and I represented the Jah-merican cohort in the stadium at the World Cup contending game between Mexico and Jamaica recently. By sheer passion alone (and the introduction of a new coach), the Reggae Boyz slipped past Mexico's grasp with a 1-0 victory, and just last week, wriggled around Honduras with another 1-0 win. Despite international and national doubt, Jamaica may actually be flying to South Africa in 2010 for the Cup. Only one game remains, and Canada ultimately will decide its fate. With Olympic fever having only recently abated, it is a very proud time in the country.

Typical Ballgame Fare in Jamaica

(**Disclaimer of Future Fickleness: If Jamaica does make it to the Cup and competes against England, I will quickly move to the Queen's side of the stadium. I've been a Rooney fan since his first European Cup. Hearing of his record-breaking 5 goals for England in these preliminary stages has already made me smile and murmur, "Roooooooooonnnnaaayyyy...." For now and until fickleness overrides, though, it's all about Jamaica. ;))

JAMAICAN THEATRES:
Along with peers from the program and a couple of new friends, I've been spending more time with my friend, Tammy (mentioned in earlier entries). She's a crack up (with her main aspirations including culinary school and marrying Donald Trump), while her energy is infectious and mouth foul. ;)

$500 Movie Tickets

Having been "indebt" to her for making her watch Mamma Mia the other day, she kidnapped me this week to watch a horror flick in town. I loved the idea of hanging out, but hated the idea of the horror movie. It doesn't matter how slow the Jason/Freddie/(Fill in blank with zombie character name) is walking in a film. I will always believe that their limping, 1mph gait will be enough to catch the speeding pick-up truck with the helpless, well-endowed, questionably-intelligent passengers. Luckily, the most gruesome film available to watch this week was more of a suspense movie: Max Payne. It was definitely a rental. Regardless, though, it is always an experience to go to a theatre in Jamaica:

· The concessionary stand commercials are from the 1970's (and include a cameo of Pepe, the Nacho Cheese Droplet).
· Between the previews and the film, the audience is asked to stand to sing the country's national anthem (which is cool).
· Intermissions always fall directly in the middle of the most climactic scenes, causing audience members to unanimously yell out/throw popcorn/laugh in frustration.
· Throughout the movie, people will randomly talk and comment on the movie, and cheer when certain characters appear in the scene.

It's great.

SURFING IN BULL BAY:

Surfer in Jamaica

I surfed a few weeks ago, but haven't had a chance to head back to Bull Bay (since we've been prepping for mid-terms). This hasn't been too disappointing as the conditions have been flat. This week, the swell has been picking up, though, so I will likely try to get to the shore for at least a morning or afternoon session soon. I love being out in the water and am looking forward to having more time after December.

DATING IN JAMAICA:
A few folks have asked...;)
Yes. Since arriving in Kingston, I have gone on a few dates, but nothing has been serious. (Until fieldwork finishes in December, there's really no time for something substantial.) One experience was really comical, though and will go down in my personal history as being one for "the diaries". Also, met a great dancer in Ochi recently, and a BBC correspondent in Kingston last week. The latter used to live in an area next to my future university, Roehampton, in London. Now, he lives up my street, so we'll be hanging out this week.

My host mom is priceless on such occasions. Whenever I walk down the stairs in date attire (go-go boots, tube top and mini skirt, of course - ;)), she'll smile, clasp her hands to her chest and in a high-pitched voice, giggle and croon, "Ooooohhhh!" Each experience feels a bit like prom. It makes me laugh.

THINGS I'VE LEARNED FROM THE HALF-WAY MARK:

Jeopardy

· I will be signing up for Jeopardy as soon as September rolls around. "Slavery and Plantation in the Caribbean, Alex...? How much time do you have? I may need a couple of screens to write my answer."

· I spent six hours transcribing a 45-minute interview on Friday after an instructor requested that we do so. This week, she indicated that she didn't need it after all. That was...a little bit of a bummer. ;) But, I gained a real lesson in being efficient and focused during interviews. The participant's time isn't the only thing wasted during long-winded, tangent-filled meetings. Mine is, too...exponentially. Am considering having all questions timed like a game show: In 20 seconds or less, Sally...Fred...tell me how YOU would make the world a better place for orphans with HIV/AIDS transitioning out of residential care. Go!

Hmmm. ;) Maybe not.

VOTING FROM DA ISLAND:

Gathering for the First Obama vs McCain Debate

Our crew gathered for the first debate between Obama and McCain recently. Though a frustrating experience (as was to be expected), it was a lot of fun coupled with Red Stripe and popcorn. Beyond the presidential nominees and the national bail-out, the propositions on the table (involving the more ethical treatment of farm animals, abortion, renewable energy requirements, gay rights) are extremely important. It is a very exciting time. For those that haven't already found the following non-partisan website, it can be very useful: www.smartvoter.org. Depending on your state/county, it breaks down each of the propositions and district measures into digestible pieces. I loved voting this year. I loved believing, for a brief moment, that "a change is gon' come".

I hope this finds everyone well. Thanks for all of your letters and notes these past few weeks. It has been great to hear from you!!
Lots of love and big hugs,
h