One day in Rome...

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  Rome, Italy
Sunday, May 18, 2008

The morning began late. We went first to the rooftop dining area where we ate in the open air, overlooking the Roman Forum. As soon as we set off, we noticed a police blockade for an Animal-Rights rally down the main thoroughfare. It was a pretty large march of people who looked like they were PETA or something equally radical. Most wore spray=painted shirts and animal masks. I wanted to see the Aquaducts so we walked around the back of the Colosseo and down a beautiful pathway flanked by the roman forum. We soon turned down another tree-lined road and began a trek toward Terme Cavacalla, the Roman baths. Upon admission, we were instantly stunned at the size of the grounds and facilities. The baths were so huge, that they could serve 5000 Roman per day with fresh water from the aquaducts. The bathers would go from hot to cold, or cold to hot depending on the season, through a series of baths. The "Frigidarium" was the innermost chamber with thick brick walls and was formerly covered by a wood-beamed roof

Animal rights activist or pervert?

. It had four separate, deep pools at each corner to keep the water very cold. At one time, the entire complex was tiled with beautiful mosaics and replete with marble statues, but most have been stripped away and taken to other museums. There were a few fragments of mosaic left, but not much else except the myriad alcoves and the immensity of the place.

Returning then to the Hotel forum we rested for about an hour and then set off for dinner near the Fountain of Trevi. It was as I remembered with the clear, clean water cascading over voluminous, cantilevered marble ledges and from the pipes of Neptune's entourage. We threw coins in, promising again to return to Rome.

The restaurant was disappointing, as we were taken down to the basement, yet another alcove-shaped winter room with a single hook in the ceiling. We ordered Prosecco and relaxed. I ordered zucchini flowers stuffed with mild ewe's cheese to start, while Brian got a potato and cheese dish. When our entrees came, we traded as he preferred my macaroni with sharp sheep's cheese and pepper, and I liked his Orrecchieta with tomato and smoked gorgonzola. We finished with a cordial of Grappa, which brave Brian threw back at once. His face betrayed his pain! I drank it more modestly, but I made more faces along the way

Bri and me

!

We wandered over to Piazza di Spagna and the famous Spanish Steps. There I drank from the famous galleon fountain, and we lingered watching the people and admiring the beauty of a warm and shining Roman night. It had been slightly raining and everything was beautiful and reflective. We caught a cab back to the hotel, where I had trouble sleeping and was up half the night reading. Sigh.


Rome is so much cleaner and less polluted that our first trip here. Although a few two-stroke scooters whiz by, most are now compliant with emission standards and the blue haze that choked me nearly to death 7 years ago, is completely gone. The city is cleaner, smells better, and oddly, there are less cats. Something had to be done and it obviously has been. I Remember being flabbergasted at the feral cat population last time. They hung out in every historic area, lounging atop statues, columns and sarcophagi. There were kittens frolicking in all the ruins. This time, I saw NONE. Not a single cat in all of Rome! Does that mean the rats are gone too? It was a heck of a lot cleaner.

Bri and I ate atop the hotel again, but this time the rain poured down on the awning over us

Brian at Piazza di Spagna

. Olga spotted us and joined. She was wearing fuscia from head to toe and looked beautiful in her flat pumps. Then Brian's client joined us, a dour 50-something woman named Robin. She gave me a cursory nod when we were introduced and never met my eyes again. She seemed jaded and dull, lacking any spark of life. Now I see why Brian was trying to avoid her. She could suck the energy out of the Eveready Bunny in 20 seconds.

We took a stroll around the Roman Ruins again, but stayed close as I had to catch a 2pm flight to Hamburg, then on to Amsterdam. The rain ceased and we walked hand-in-hand along some of the oldest architecture on the planet. Time passed too quickly and I knew we had to return. I stopped for one last sip of water from the ever-flowing public fountains, and said a brave goodbye to my love promising him that the next five days would pass not quickly enough.

It was a good thing that I got to the airport more than 2 hours early or I would have missed my plane again. The Lufthansa counter for check in had NO kiosks, and the line was over 200 ppl long. There were only 2 clerks trying to handle the crowd, but three clerks in "First and Business Class" sat idly and avoided looking at their struggling collegues. Now I know what Ryanair was talking about! It took me 90 minutes to reach the front of the check in line! I skated through security and walked quickly to my gate as the plane had already begun to board. Such unbelievable inefficiency for a German Airline! Somehow I did not get my pre-assigned seat, but I had a window near the front of the plane. It was a crowded flight.

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Fountain of Trevi

Terme Cavacalla, Rome

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