Bolgatanga Heat

Trip Start Nov 02, 2004
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Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of Ghana  ,
Thursday, November 11, 2004

The heat is oppressive, the connection slow, and the mind frayed after an all-night bus trip to this arid border town, so I'll keep this brief, any more coherent is beyond me currently...

Incidents:

- Kumasi market - biggest in West Africa, like Burroughs' 'Interzone' come alive

- Hanging out with hairdressers all day in their shop "Why do white people come to Ghana?" they ask. "Why do you think?" I ask back at them. "To laugh at us.", they say.

- Me and a British journalist share a balcony overlooking Kumasi, I record the night sound of the city as cockroaches flit around us.

- In the market an old lady starts to talk at me in Twi, I ask my friend what shes saying. She's saying "Do you see now how we are suffering here in Ghana?".

- Ritual scarring, Ramadan, potholes, distrust, openness, like an insect feeling about in the darkness.

- Border crossing tomorrow; Burkina Faso. And then what?

- I'm in Accra. I'm at the Akuma beach village. I'm sitting on rocks at night as the waves crash around us. I'm being told "If you don't get on the togetherness train, then you'll be left behind at the station..."
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