Semana Santa in a Colonial Spanish City
Trip Start
Jan 01, 2007
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56
141
Trip End
Ongoing
Leon,
Nicaragua
Thursday, April 5, 2007
Semana Santa is the week before Easter, and the most celebrated holiday in Central America. Almost everyone has the week off from work or school and heads to the beach (just like Memorial Day, Labor Day, and 4th of July in the US). The Spanish colonial cities and churches celebrate with daily processions (parades) honoring the different stages of Jesusīs crucifixion and resurrection. Semana Santa really peaks starting on Thursday and continuing to Sunday.
Leon is one of the oldest Spanish Colonial cities in Central America. It was originally founded in 1524 on the shores of Lake Zolotlan. In 1610, Volcano Momotombo erupted, prompting the city to be moved to itīs current location next to the indigenous village of Subtiava (which still exists today!). Granada (which we would later visit) is another Spanish Colonial city about 120 kilometers to the south. Leon and Granada fought for a few centuries to be declared the Capital City of Nicaragua, and alternated the title. Finally, a comprimise was made and in 1852 the capital was declared in Managua, halfway between Leon and Granada
alfombra in progress
. The rivalry, though, continues with the attitudes of the city dwellers as to whose city is superior.Today, Leon is known as a university/educational center and also for the dozens of beautiful old churches and cathedrals scattered throughout the cobblestone spanish streets. La Catedral de Leon (Leon Cathedral) is the largest in all of Central America and located on the main plaza. From the outside, it appears massive, but weathered and aged. But inside, it is as impressive as any we have seen in Europe. Incredibly tall ceilings, beautiful large murals, just beautiful!
When we arrived in Leon, we walked out to the main plaza to find it full of people and vendors, preparing for the parades in the coming days. We enjoyed a wonderful local lunch at a scenic outdoor cafe on the plaza, El Sesteo. I ordered a traditional dish made of yucca topped with seasoned pork and cabbage. Frank ordered the Plato del Dia made of shredded beef, rice, cole slaw, and plaintain chips. Tasty! We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the hot but pretty streets of Leon. I snuck into the Cathedral during Mass (one of the dozens of Masses to take place during the next four days) and was in awe at itīs size and beauty. Later that evening, we returned to the shade of our hostel, BigFoot, for a pizza and beer.
The next day, Friday, we spent in a similar routine. Wandering the city by foot and observing a couple Good Friday processions (parades). We wandered down to the neighborhood of Subtiava to observe them making Alfombras
alfombra starting point
. Alfombras are a traditional artwork created especially in Central America for Semana Santa. Alfombras are massive "carpets" made of colored sawdust. Families and friends gather around to create and design these colorful carpets to depict various Bible and religious scenes. About 2 long street blocks were closed off in Subtiava, with about 20-30 different Alfombra carpets being created by the locals. Please come back to check out the pictures when we have a chance.Later that evening, we returned for the final viewing of the Alfombras. We expected there to be just a couple dozen people (in fact - we made casual plans with some new friends to meet up there). Surprise surprise - there were literally THOUSANDS of people lined up to view these beautiful Alfombras. I think the entire city of Leon returned from their beach getaways to view these. Needless to say, we didnīt stand a chance at finding our friends.
We slowly made our way through the crowds to view each completed Alfombra, and then found an outdoor restaurant to grab dinner. Carne Asada and another Yucca/Pork dish and 2 sodas for a whopping $4. We could easily live like kings here. By the time we leave, we notice that the line to view the Alfombras has now wrapped around the bend and there are hundreds of people waiting and squishing in the streets. We make our way out of the crowd and follow a stream of people, not sure where they are going to. It turns out they are walking a few blocks away to watch another procession. We grab a curbside spot and watch the grand parade go by. This time, it was rather depressing and somber music being played because Good Friday marks the death of Jesus.
After the parade, we made our way back to the hotel to relax and rest up for the next dayīs adventure: Volcano Boarding! What is that ? Well, youīll just have to read our next journal when we finally get it posted!
Cheers,
Kay
