Back to Guatemala
Trip Start
Jan 01, 2007
1
40
141
Trip End
Ongoing
Livingston,
Guatemala
Tuesday, March 6, 2007
The day before we left, Lydia (our amazing guesthouse owner) called the ferry in Punta Gorda, Belize to let them know we were coming and to pre-process our passports and to ask them to hold the ferry for us.
We left Placencia at the crack of dawn on Tuesday to catch the 6:45 am launcha (tiny ferry) from Placencia to Independence ($5 US per person). From there, we caught a Chicken Bus at 8:00 to Punta Gorda ($5 US per person). Oh what a ride. At first it was a speedy straight paved road. Then it gave way to a bumpy gravel and dirt road for the next hour. The driverīs assistant then opened up every single window on the bus so we were all showered in dirt for the next hour. After 15 minutes, we leaned over and closed our window, but that didnīt really help
Dried Fish
. I have a feeling the young assistant was new and did not understand his instructions because towards the end of the ride, he got a long lecture/scolding from the driver. When our bus arrived in Punta Gorda, I looked out the window and saw a jolly round man looking up at me with a huge smile and holding a piece of paper with our names on it. I donīt know who was happier - us to get off of the dusty bus or him to greet us! The jolly round man turned out to be the captain of the ferry - he showed us to customs and then took us to the boat. Exiting Belize immigration was very easy - a quick stamp and only $7.50 US per person for a park fee.
We then jumped on the launcha (tiny uncovered ferry) with 3 other people and took off towards Livingston, Guatemala ($17.50 per person one way). The one hour ride started off smooth, but soon we hit turbulant water and the rest was a very bumpy wet ride. We were drenched when we arrived, even though the captain kindly covered us with a tarp during the ride.
Arriving in Livingston, Guatemala we were a little confused. Turns out that they run on an Honor System for immigration. The customs office is several blocks away from the pier and only open 9-5
Fish drying in the sun
. Anyone arriving by boat can just wander on in Guatemala and stay without ever going through customs. Fortunately, we met Kristi from a local hostel who showed us the way. Frank recalled a story another traveller told us weeks ago about how he did not know he needed a stamp when he entered at Livingston -- so when he went to leave Guatemala from a different point he was rejected and had to go all the way back to Guate City to clear it up! Sounds like a prime entry point for loads of foreign convicted escapees and wanted persons... (Which we would later find out for sure!)We checked into La Casa de Iguana, a neat little hostel on the edge of town, tucked in between a residential area complete with roosters and other family pets. Our private cabana with private bath (and hot water!) was a great deal at only 100Q ($13 US) and was huge and decorated nicely in Guatemalan and beach style.
For lunch, we went to a place called Tolingo-Lingo on the other side of town, recommended by our hostel. And the plus - for mentioning our hostel to the waitress we received 2 wonderful and strong Mojitos! It was a great restaurant - I ordered a local Garifuna soup of Fish, Plantains, and (baby) Crabs in a coconut broth. Frank ordered Chicken Curry. Both were fantastic - and huge portions. But they definitely have different regulations here - the crabs were no more than 2 inches wide in body length. At least they were males!
The entertainment of the restaurant came by way of the owner, Maria. She is downright crazy! A fun lady, she talks and talks and talks. She is very aggressive and assertive, too. Frank admitted he was terrified of her! But, she is a very good cook and an upstanding citizen. Why? Around 2001 (I think...) a strange American man came to work at her other restaurant (a pizzeria). He seemed very odd to her, so one day she went searching online for information about him. Turns out he was on the FBI Americaīs Most Wanted list! For the murder of an American College Student - a girl. She contacted the appropriate authorities and worked with the American embassy in Guatemala City. The creep was soon arrested and extradited back to the US. Hopefully heīs still where he should be. And she got a few plugs in newspapers and on the TV show "Americaīs Most Wanted". After our experience with the lax immigration in Livingston, it is very easy to see how these creeps slip in unnoticed.
The next day, we signed up for a tour through our hostel to go see two nearby sights. First, a boat ride to the Siete Altares (7 alters) - a series of pools and waterfalls. Then a boat ride to Playa Blanca - a very remote and beautiful white sand beach. Unfortunately, it was cancelled at the last minute because of the ongoing bad weather (it had been cold and rainy/cloudy for 3 days and continued to be for several more days.)
So we decided to move on and our hostel contacted our next destination - La Finca Tatin. La Finca Tatin is a gorgeous little hideaway tucked in the jungle on Rio Tatin, just off of the Rio Dulce. It was about 10 kilometers away by launcha. Read more in the next joural for details!
Cheers,
Kay
