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"Everything in New Zealand costs $85 or $115."
We splashed out a wad of money to climb Fox Glacier. I'd heard it was advisable to do a full day walk instead of a half day. I'd be inclined to agree with that as while we were just stepping on to the ice, some half day people were coming off and heading back to their overpriced accommodation. The glacier is, without a doubt, impressive. It's massive. We learned loads of facts from our guide about it, most of which escape me now. But I do remember that it can advance or retreat about 30cm a day, which I think is great because the thing is just huge. Our guide was called Malcom, which is probably the funniest thing about this entry. He knew alot about solid water and was very very in to the colours of ice. Maybe a bit too much, but it's not totally unjustified. There are some great blues up there, and some great little spots we were clambering around. Some real dangerous spots too, especially considering you're walking (and falling) on ice.
It was here that another thing about relationships struck me. I now have to kind of look out for someone else, which is odd. Not only do I have to make sure I don't fall in to some massive ice hole, I also have to make sure Sophie, who is remarkably clumsy, doesn't either. And what's the protocol if your girlfriend gets sucked under the earth's surface? Is that the end of my trip too or can I carry on traveling? Do I get to keep her digital camera? Anyway she was fine. The guide did a head count at one point and didn't see her behind gangly me. So he thought someone was dead. Oh the fun we had up there.
As with alot of places in New Zealand the Department of Conservation has its meat hooks in the glaciers. Therefore, again there is only one company running these tours. No competition, so extortionate prices. I know the DoC are doing good, but I still hate them. The rest of the west coast was pretty crap. The weather was rubbish and there really wasn't much to see at all. This must be the most overpriced country in the world. I'm sure it's fine if you come over with a bundle of Euro, or a dollop of Sterling. But I'm living off dollars earned in New Zealand. They don't get you anywhere. How the fuck do you raise a family here? More thumbnails ...
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