Yak Morris
Trip Start
Feb 26, 2004
1
8
84
Trip End
Nov 16, 2006
Ger Camp,
Mongolia
Saturday, March 20, 2004
Technically we're back in Ulaan Baatar, but the last few days have been spent out in the country at an 'authentic' Ger Camp. One of our first priorities after getting back to civilization is to check our e-mail. That's what years of college and working in an office do to you.
A Ger is basically a really big tent which the vast majority of Mongolian's in the country live in. Calling it a tent doesn't really do it justice, as ours had two beds, a table and chairs. We went to visit a real Mongolian familys home, and their Ger had loads of stuff, including a T.V. and cassette player. Ours was VERY authentic apparently.
The heating is done through a stove (is that the right word?) in the middle which you have to keep chucking wood on. Luckily, staff at the camp came in now and again to do it for us...including throughout the middle of the night. The guy who was coming in just after midnight started off quiet enough, but eventually, as Mike put it, it sounded like he was reversing his coal truck in to our Ger.
I should point out that the camp was VERY touristy, but absolutely brilliant. Really relaxing, and the scenery was unreal. Every time I stepped out of the Ger I'd have forgotten what outside looked like...just miles of mountains and snow and nothing.
1 - St. Patricks Day - Me
It was like in the second Matrix (rubbish) with all that key master crap.The closest I can compare it to was like the horse ranch my family and I stayed in in Montana.
I'd say the place is kicking during the summer, but as it was when we arrived it was just us, our guide Tunga, and one American ex-marine, also called Mike. The first sighting of him was on his mobile yelling "What am I supposed to do except eat and sit in my Ger??!" But at least he gave me the 'Travelers Nod'. As it turned out he wasn't at all obnoxious and it was great to have him as company.
When he left he was replaced by two English, who I think we'll be seeing on the next train trip too. The best story I took away from them is that Jo (the girl) had gotten off the train in Russia to take some photos, and had returned to find the train pulling off. After a lot of sign language someone managed to put her on another train, which would follow, and catch up to her train 5 hours later for about 12 minutes. She made it.
Fliss, I bought some knucklebones. Not the metal ones we first used, or the budget plastic ones we bought, but proper knucklebones.
Meals were great. Basically sat round listening to Tunga (she could talk for Mongolia) tell us about Mongolia life and traditions. Far too much information to pass on but here's one that jumped out at me:
When an 18 year old virgin girl (guess why it jumped out at me??) dies of natural causes, it isn't uncommon to make a wind instrument out of her thigh bone.
2 - St. Patricks Day - Mikey
Apparently other ages just 'don't sound the same'.Tunga also informed us that Rodney had made it to a Mongolian hospital. The doctor looked at him and yes, the Russian doctor was right by saying his nose wasn't broken, it was shattered. So now apparently he's going home a.s.a.p. for an operation. The fucker who punched him should be sent to Siberia, if he didn't live there already.
We went horse riding. Great, but we were useless. Hardly got anywhere. My horse kept eating snow and Mike's horse collapsed. I swear to God. We thought he was a goner, but he's fine. Reminded me of when Brian Malone's horse died in Australia. Off the top of my head I can think of 3 animals whose demise Malone is responsible for.
Our St. Patrick's night was spent with one can of beer each, in our Ger. Photos are AMAZING!
Lonely planet is shit. I'd get more information from my long johns. Please please please buy Let's Go before you buy Lonely Planet.
Anyway, the whole Ger thing was fantastic and probably my favourite part of the holiday so far.
Back in Ulaan Baatar just chilling out. Nice city but quite polluted and obviously alot of problem. There are apparently thousands of children who live in the sewers for warmth and this was brought home to us when we heard them talking as we passed an open manhole.
The last time I saw this many Mongos in one place was in Q-Bar.
That's it. Another fairly long one, but internet is dirt cheap, and I want to write all this down before I forget it....and it's warm in here. Still, weather's not too bad. The worst we've felt is about minus 10 degrees C. Apparently the temperature swang 36 degrees in the space of 24 hours once here. This country is brilliant.
