Kikuyu vs. Luo
Trip Start
Jun 20, 2008
1
10
19
Trip End
Jul 16, 2008
Nairobi,
Kenya
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
backpacks (how we managed to squeeze them into the more than packed
minibus - I have no idea. But the vision of being robbed was too vivid
in our minds, and Stephen's words"I want to change my underpants
tomorrow", so it is better to take care and stay in control of
situation.
The heat was enormous, and soon all the water we drank evaporated into
rich fishy air. This is the lake town, and you can smell it.
Floherence was always-excited cheerful woman that hosted us for couple
days. Soon we were Luo people - we received t-shirts "Lou woman (man
for Stephen) in the house, and funny enough we receved far less
"mzungu" and much more smiles and friendly chuckles. I am not sure if
will dare to wear it in front of kikuyu but for these days to be part
of Luos was exciting.
So here we put another piece into the Kenyan politics puzzle. To avoid
it impossible, as it is far more lively here than in UK or Lithuania.
Young or old are more like to ignore what is happening, but here:
emotions arise.
So what is the story? To be honest, hard to say... Probably because nobody really knows the real one. The fair one.
Briefly. After Kenya got their independence, president rooted from
Kikuyu tribe. Bear in mind, that there are 42 tribes here, all speak
their own language with Kiswahili and English being at school and other
public places.
First president was Kikuyu, and current Kikuyu has already been here
for a while. Not like Zimbabwian - Mugabe grown into the crown.
According to Kikuyu, Kibaki has improved economy, and put Kenya in
front of other African countries, just behind Egypt and South Africa.
Luos, second most influential group, had their own candidate. Election
was misty: Kibaki and Raila were walking close to each other. By
mysterious circumstances, Kibaki won, and it broke into flame. Maybe it
is not the reason so much of who won.
When you travel in Kenya, you probably would have a fair guess which
part is most owned by Kikuyus. Roads are as ice. If you travel in
Nyanza though, you will loose some kilos as to go on such roads - it is
pure sports. So all in all, seems if your mp or minister is your tribe
fellow, you more likely to succeed. Luos complain, that lands were
taken away and given to Kikuyus. Kikuyus deny by claiming their
hardworking attitude is the key to success.
In one way or another, this conflict turned into guns, fires, threats,
robberies. "Luos were fed up with unfair attitude in the country".
Apparently they were killing not only enemies, but own tribe people as
well. Kikuys got aggressive not less.
So all in all, some places - especially those were tribal mixture is
obvious - were at the hell's gate... One Kisii shared, that even being
neutral doesn't help. He used to carry couple of portraits, just in
case. And when asked whom he supports, he had a prepared portrait. He
survived.
But I got the impression, that this country is in crisis even though
the coalition government was formed. And not the anger towards each
other is a problem. A pure problem (ironically, rare country who has
not such a problem) is actually the politics. They are the ones to buy
votes, to threaten, to kill, to be bribed. Recognized mafia. No wonder,
why the police is so corrupted. Desperation and corruption lead people
into depression. But not Africans. They are full of optimism. Maybe not
so much of a critical attitude, but good hope.
