The Shoberg Enfield Project + Music Video

Trip Start Dec 10, 2009
Trip End Jan 14, 2010

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Where I stayed
Vanilla House

Flag of India  ,
Wednesday, December 30, 2009

         We were dropped off in Anjuna (a beach town in the state of Goa) at 8:30 a.m. after a fourteen hour bus ride west.  We both had a remarkably good night's sleep and as they called our town we disembarked and began our typical disembarking bus routine.  Since I am one of the more nimble members of the group, I scale the side of the bus and climb to the top where our luggage is stored.  Most buses do not tie your stuff down, so Chad and I go to the top—always against the driver’s protests—and strap all our gear down.  Everyone carries NRS rafting river straps.  At the arrival point the process is reversed.  We are usually quite the site to all the other backpackers that have never thought of doing such a thing.  You learn to do it after trailing other buses, watching as they whip around corners only to lose a bag or two of their unsuspecting passengers.  It happens all the time.  It is just one more little detail you add to your list of things to do in spite of the protests of others around you.

            Anjuna is quite right in the paradise kind of way.  The beaches are lined with palm trees loaded with coconuts, and as I stated, white sand beaches for as far as the eye can see, dotted with red coral outcroppings, fishermen, and the occasional Hindu painted cow.  You would think just crawling up under a coconut tree to nap for a few hours would be where it is at, but every year a tourist or two is killed as these massive, basketball-sized, 2-3 lb fruits fall thirty feet onto the head of some unsuspecting westerner.  At least they died in an Indian paradise.

            We found guesthouses on the ocean for $20 a night and instead of heading out onto the beach with the others, I took a nap and planned for the week.  I wanted to reconnoiter the land by jumping into the maps of Goa and figuring out the local streets, roads, alleyways, and beaches, before just blindly heading into the labyrinth of beach towns that Goa is. 

            Annie and I had a lazy day and then I rented a British Enfield (pronounced Ein-feld) motorcycle.  These motorcycles are the Harley’s of India.  They are loud, bad to the bone, and they make you feel like a real badass.  Everything on them is backward.  One gear up; then down to neutral; then two more down to second and third; then another neutral for good measure; followed by the highest gear at the bottom.  The foot break is on the left side of the bike instead of on the right and where you would normally break on the right, you shift the gears.  To finish off the discombobulating effect of the bike, the hand breaks are reversed as well—oh joy!

            Regardless of the confusing nature of the bike, we figured it out and headed south down the coast of Goa.  Every few kilometers we found a beach and then located one different scene after the next.  On one beach was Indian spring break replete with parasailers, jetskis, bananaboat pull behinds, and Caribbean bars jotting the sandy landscape.  We decided it was not our cup of tea and continued riding south.

            The Enfield reinforced my need for a motorcycle.  We cruised for hours on end, through rough traffic and down sections of windy coastline and down to several beaches that were otherwise inaccessible to cars.  At one point I had a crazy dog run up and try and attack my leg, but just as he got to me, he received a swift kick in the head.  That’s right, Man—1, Dog—0.  At this rate I’ll have kicked nearly every animal in India in the head at least once, maybe twice.

            We rode until dark and then returned to large seafood platters on the ocean—I mean directly on the beach about twenty feet from the surf.  The total cost including beverages and milk shakes, about $14.

            Now it is off to go and grab Jesse from the airport.  Happy New Years everyone!
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Mom on

Ahh, and I know you love animals, but when they are attacking you have to take care of yourself and Annie. It sounds like you are seeing some gorgeous sites. Again, Happy New Year! Have a wonderful time with Jesse. You are all in my thoughts and prayers. God Bless You! Be safe! Love, Mom

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