Too many things to see, too few tissues
"If you don't go to Rome for ten days, don't go at all." Words of advice from a reliable source, which we decided to follow. Our arrival in Rome was hampered, as Shilo had acquired a cold during the trip from Naples. Actually, it seems as though most tourist in Italy are sneezing, coughing and having a rough time of it.
Our hotel "Colors" is right next to the Vatican, so we dropped our bags off and walked around the corner to see St. Peter's Basilica. It was late in the day so we had no lines and walked right in. Overall St. Peter's wasn't our favorite church but what it lacks in charm it makes up for in shear size. It is enormous.
By our second day in Rome Gabe had come down with the cold as well. We were not a pretty sight. Over the next few days our routine consisted of waking up early, doing as much as possible, eating in the ghetto, and coming home to go to sleep early.
Our hunt for artichokes took us to the Jewish ghetto in Rome. This area is known for traditional Roman cooking at a reasonable price. It is best known for "Carciofi alla Giudea", basically a deep fried artichoke. Something like the best potato chip you ever ate. We were regulars at "Yotvata" a kosher restaurant that makes some of the best cracker thin pizza you could ever eat. More then a few people at the restaurant have wondered how we ended up here. One talkative couple we met even said "why are you here?" When we tell them we are vegetarians, we don't seem so out of place.
On our first walk around Rome we begin to realize how much we won't have time to see. Walking in Rome goes something like this- stop four times at things you find along the way, get to your destination and say "hey, isn't that the (insert famous place here) right over there." In a few days we had walked for many hours and had see tons of art, sculpture and architecture. Our highlights include:
The Pantheon is a simple but memorable building. It has a feel that is unique and justly memorable. I didn't know it was a used at a church, but that makes sense. It seems that the ancient buildings that are in the best shape in Rome were all at some point made into a church, hence their survival. We had been here a few times. It is one of the few places in Rome that consistently distracts you from the crowds.
Shilo has a bit of a thing for Caravaggio, so we have been hunting down his work at small churches, big churches and various museums in the city. The works themselves do not disappoint, although they can be hard to find or see in some of the smaller churches; particularly when they are jammed in a corner. Without direct light the sheen from the surface of the painting can make it hard to see much. Shilo's favorites can be found at San Luigi del Francesi (Calling of Saint Matthew). You can also find 6 bus tours from France at this church at any given time. Apparently Luigi was from France.
We spent an entire day in the Vatican museum complex. It was like no other museum we have been to, as they seem to have pretty much everything. The reason for many visitors stop here is the Sistine Chapel.
A review- The Sistine Chapel. We have to note that a priest from Nebraska gave us directions on how to best deal with the crowds in the chapel. After entering head to the right wall and wait for a seat on the bench to open up. This is the only place to sit, allowing for a longer well deserved look.
Shilo's thoughts- The most surprising part of the Sistine Chapel was the amount of other famous works surrounding the ceiling and the Last Judgment. Works by Botticelli and others seem to be crammed into the space...their impact diminished by the ceiling. It would be lovely to view the chapel in some semblance of reverence. The shear volume of people swirling in and out of this place makes that impossible.
Gabe's thoughts- With the help of the audio guide, I really enjoyed the mix of biblical reference and broader philosophical themes in Michelangelo's work. Many people's poor behavior in the chapel was hard to ignore. In particular, the flash photography. All this does is force the guards to scream "No Photo." Watching the crow is a bit ironic as the drama in front of you seems to echo the themes in the Last Judgment all too closely.
We have reached the one month point on our trip and feel a bit rough around the edges. Our cloths are getting a little frayed and we now know why many long haul travelers look a little dirty. Gabe wore the same outfit for 4 days this week. Doing your laundry in the sink can be a real drag.
"Molto Stanco" (Very tired, as in we are very tired)
Shi and Gabe
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