The Road to Iraq

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  Palmyra, Syria
Friday, July 11, 2008

Today was quite the experience.  I finally decided to head to Palmyra in eastern Syria.  It's always an episode trying to get from A to B, but I'd read so much about the ruins - Palmyra is Syria's number 1 attraction - I should go.  I managed to jump on a green minivan, showed him my map and he waved me in to Harasta station, which is the closest thing to a "bus station" that they got.  I bought a ticket to Palmyra for 200 pounds and then headed out for the 3.5 hour journey. The road was barren, just sand and rock. After around 2 hours into the trip I saw a bunch of small dots in the foreground... figured they couldn't be people because I hadn't seen one soul in the desert thus far. As we neared, the dots turned into Syrian soldiers- there were hundreds of them walking through the desert, who knows if they have a military base or training camp out in the middle of nowhere. (we were just 100 km from Iraq).  Soon after this sighting, around 5 miles up we saw more militia, just lined up on the side of the road in full gear.  While normally seeing that would make me feel worried or apprehensive, it didn't even phase me. All throughout Syria there has been an extreme military presence, to the extent that it's started to make me feel more comfortable than frightened, however ironic it sounds.

I conched out and was awoken by the bus driver to get my ass out of there. (once again, tbeing the only tourist sometimes can be an advantage.. the locals always make an effort to take care of you.)  I was dropped off in what looked like the middle of the desert. I saw ruins in the distance and was told to just start walking towards them. I looked for a road but couldn't find one... I was seriously worried about stepping on a landmine or something. I wanted road!!  The site at Palmyra was built by the Assyrians and then taken over by the Romans in the mid 1st century. To my shock, the only tourists there were me and a Polish couple.. for being the most popular tourist spot in Syria.- welcome to low season.  I've never seen an attraction quite so barren before, it was nice actually. 

The heat became too much and I called it a day around 3pm. I walked all the way back, wandered into some hotel and asked about getting a bus back to Damascus. They gave me some Bedouin tea (hot sugar laden water), and this guy drove me to the "bus stop." He told me it was 200 pounds.  Then when he asked for more money I refused, fortunately I was in a good mood and my sense of humor was still intact.  The driver and I battled for a good 15 minutes, he finally settled with 25, which is more than what it should have cost for a 2 min car ride. I know it sounds so stupid to be arguing over something so trivial but sometimes it's all about principal.  Oh well, it was all in good fun and we were all still smiling which is important.  By the time we arrived back in Damascus I was so hot, tired, and hungry.   None of the drivers spoke english, or just drove off. I refused to take a taxi and pay 10 times more than a crammed minibus. I asked this Syrian guy next to me, Jaleel.  One of the nicest locals I've met on this trip so far. He wasn't from Damascus but asked around to help, he spoke fragmented english but enough to help me. He said to take the taxi with him. We got out at some unfamiliar place where he said I was to switch to a minibus. I handed him 100 pounds for the taxi and he wouldn't even take my money.  He flagged down the appropriate minivan for me and that was that, just a friendly stranger.  Turns out the minivan didn't take me to the Youssef however, they kicked me out after around 5 minutes at some random square. I had no idea where I was so I started walking in some direction. While normally I'd freak out in a situation like that, I was content knowing that somehow, sometime, I'd make it back. I asked some soldiers along the way and turns out I started walking down the right street. I was at my hotel within around 30 min.  It's always a challenge but sometimes it can be fun.  And for the first time, I'm seeing real hospitality from people who don't want something for something. Syria and Jordan have been great experiences in that way.  Folks on the street are so friendly.  It's a good feeling. I've actually never felt safer while on the trip, which is ironic since I was most worried about security here. The military does not worry me at all, they have much bigger fish to fry.  The locals on the street are harmless, helpful, and go out of there way to make me feel welcome. I wish we had this hospitality back home.

Once I finally reached familiar territory, I got my normal felafal from the same dude in Al-Merjeh square. Then I walked into al Hamidiyek souk in Old Damascus, went to the only place open, the ice cream shop!! I wanted just the normal white with pistachios but the dude handed me some half and halfer, it was like vanilla cream and half fruit sorbet with chunks of something, maybe date? Delicious, whatever it was. Then on the walk back and I hit up my favorite juice man, I go to him around 3 times a day.  He speaks no english whatsoever but we've become friends. :) 

I am going to Beirut tomorrow with Pierre and Nicholas.  I wanted to pop over there regardless, but the idea was quickly fading once Shane got banned from Syria.  So now it's game on! We leave for Lebanon tomorrow morning, just 1 hr from Damascus. Beirut is known for a ridiculously fun nighlife so we'll see if I can "pull some shapes on the dance floor", as Joe would say.  Who knows if I'll make it back into Syria, I only have a single entry visa. Worse comes to worse, I'll take a boat to Cyprus and then another ferry up the Aegean coast to Istanbul, Turkey. One way or another, I'll get there!

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