I LOVE A MMAN (ha ha)
Trip Start
Jun 21, 2008
1
10
23
Trip End
Jul 24, 2008
Amman,
Jordan
Monday, July 7, 2008
Joe and I left Aqaba, headed for Petra of Jordan- one of the 7 Wonders of the World. We met 2 Dutch guys on the transfer in Ma'an, we all headed to the Valentine Hostel. Joe and I left immediately for Petra, we bought a 2 day pass to see all the sights. Such a good move! The first good choice was actually spending nights IN Petra. For such a tourist attraction, there were only around 3 tour groups there from Amman, all of which cleared out my 3pm in the midday heat! We had the place to ourselves from 3pm on. Literally the only ones there. A similar scenario occurred at Machu Picchu in Peru... but once the tour busses head out, it's the most peaceful place ever. Petra was incredible. It is a hidden city built by the Nabataeans in the middle of the mountains, but the most incredible part was that the buildings are literally carved into the mountains. With time, the sandstone has taken on the most stunning colors imaginable, which make it quite the photographers dream. Joe and I bumped into his two friends from Egypt, Marty and Rachel. The four of us decided to tackle a hike through the caves and up the mountain adjacent to the Treasury, in order to get a better view. The climb was stunning, it looked just like Arches NP. It was a great day. The whole second day we climbed to the Monastery and saw the Amphitheatre. The sun is brutal, and walking around the entire day was exhausting enough. It was a great time though, hardcore but good. We had a great vegetarian/Jordanian dinner at the hostel which was delicious... I can't get enough falafel.
After 2 days at Petra we hopped the minivan to Amman, the capital city. En route we adopted a Ozzie from Perth, who was also on the bus. Arriving in Amman was much anticipated since it was a point of chilling. We've been going hardcore ever since arriving in Jordan.. it was time to just take care of business and relax. (laundary, post office, internet, plan crap, etc.) Nick and Andrew were already there also, and I was excited to see them again. I had entrusted Nick with my camera card and all my photos, I was excited to see him to see about those pics. Joe, Shane, and I spent the day walking to the citadel, checking out the place, and doing what we came to do- relax. We found another falafel dude who was even better than the one in Aqaba.. we've been going there for every meal thus far! Soo good. I love Amman, it's a real city with people taking care of real business, and they don't care too much about the travelers. There aren't many to begin with being low season. But I feel safe walking at night, no one hassles you, and I don't get stared at much. It's great! The people are so friendly, everyone I interact with says "welcome to Jordan!" and they're very interested to know why you've come and who you are. No money involved. The first night in Amman was great fun, it was a mini reunion on the rooftop. Shane, Joe, Andrew, Nick and I just sat in broken chairs on the top of the hostel, shooting the bull. Couldn't have been better. We met a French man who is probably the most free spirited person I've ever met in my life. He's been on the road for 10 years, working as a deckhand on boats crossing the Atlantic. Lived in probably over 50 countries and continues to travel around the world on his own time. I was inspired and felt a sense of joy in knowing that someone was living what I call a dream and having a F-ing good time doing it.
Joe, Shane (the Ozzie), and I shared a room at the hostel. At 6am I was awoken by a "Fuckin 'ell mate!" Shane, allergic to bed bugs, had fallen victim to the little critters which apparently infested our room. His arm was completely covered in dots and his hand had swelled to the size of a baseball. It was a bad scene. Last time this happened he went to the hospital, but he kinda just shrugged it off and said he still wanted to to go the Dead Sea! So it was done, despite his hand looking like a BSL Level 4 spacesuit.
We shared at taxi to the Dead Sea on the East Bank, the lowest place on Earth. The Dead Sea is used mainly by Jordanians, Syrians, and Israelis, since just across the water lies the West Bank. We heard loud noises like thunder coming from the West Bank, but what the sounds actually were remains a mystery. The Dead Sea is a weird place. They say that there is so much pollution and salt in the air that you don't sunburn, only tan. We didn't believe it. It's also so salty that only 2 forms of bacteria survive, along with one form of algae. I believe it.. that place is F-ing salty, 30% saturated. We walked to the "free beach" after many inquiries, jumped in, and bobbed around with great difficulty. I believe I had the most difficulty, since women have more body fat than men. I felt like a ping pong ball in water. I would try to stand up but the boyancy was so strong that my legs were pretty much uncontrollable. I was content just lying on my stomach like Superman, since facing the sun was too brutal and standing up straight was too much work. It is utterly impossible to sink. Once out of the "water", there remains a slimey film on your skin, as if you've just bathed in oil. It did not go away until we showered back at the hostel, 2 hrs later. I felt so gross. I know it's supposed to be good for your body and all... but yuck! The feeling of floating on water was just weird, the stinging of your cuts was brutal, and the gross oily bath experienced afterwards made me cringe. But it's a once in a lifetime experience and you gotta see what it's all about! I don't regret it.
We met up with Andrew and Nick and the 5 of us headed for Jerash later that day. I sat next to a Muslim woman who spoke decent english, she tried to convert me to Islam. It's hard talking about things like that and not step on any toes, and also to convey what you want to say in very simple language. An hour through I just got tired of hearing that I am wrong to have no religion and that I should pray to Allah so I tried to go to sleep and stop the conversation. And I did. Jerash was awesome. We saw Roman ruins, including a beautifully intact Roman Amphitheatre which recieved around 50 shots by me. Nick and I both went crazy. There was an incredibly strong military presence there which was quite suspicious... Andrew couldn't take it anymore and asked one of the guards with the club and the machine gun. There is a festival starting tomorrow apparently, the military was doing a practice run. There were literally armed guards spaced out maybe every 100 meters. It was mildly disturbing at first but then I forgot they were there.
Traveling with these dudes has been great for many reasons, but one thing that Andrew noticed is how difficult it is to be a woman traveler. Walking around in Aqaba, they show just how much of a staredown I get. There are so many extra annoyances that I have had to deal with that men won't have to experience. They all got to see firsthand how bad it is... but at least I was WITH them. When I walk alone it's even worse. There aren't many Asians in these parts..
Shane and I are going to travel together into Syria, but once again I am not ready to leave! Once again, Nick convinced me to stay another day w/ them, in Amman this time, so alas. Before we all go separate ways (Joe is heading to Jerusalam), we have one more day together tomorrow exploring the Crusader castles of northern Jordan. I really don't have much interest in it but am staying primarly to chill w/ them one last day. I felt bad because Shane didn't have any interest either but said he'd do whatever I'm doing. Ah well. Nick, Andrew, and Joe have become good friends and I would love to do whatever with them any day.
It's interesting talking to travelers about their plans and obstacles. Anyone traveling to Israel cannot venture into Syria or Iran. Travelers have tried to avoid the infamous Israeli passport stamp, but it's pretty much a gamble. If you show ANY indication that you've been in "occupied Palestine," they will turn you away at the border. Obtaining a visa for Syria is something that many travleres didn't take care of beforehand.. the Syrians especially make it difficult for Americans, but pretty much every other nationality can obtain a Syrian visa at the border with a 60% chance. Shane does not have any indication that he is in the Middle East in his passport. What happens at the Syrian border will be interesting.. since he's been in Israel, has missing gaps, and has stamps on random pieces of paper. It's really a crap shoot. If I didn't get a visa beforehand, there's no way in the world that the Syrian military would let me passed their borders.
That's it for now, next time I write I will hopefully be on the road to Damascus with the Ozzie. Let's hope both of us make it across the line of fire! Goodnight, don't let the bed bugs bite. Please!
Comments
hi!
it has been really fun to read your blogs on Dahab, Egypt and Jordan! i visited Jordan with two female friends of mine just a few days after you did, spent two weeks there and one in dahab. women definitely DO experience a different Jordan than the men!