Dashur - Red Pyramid and Bent Pyramid

  Dashur, Egypt
Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Wow, there are so many pyramids in this area.  We may have only visited three but in the distance it was easy to see at least 6, although some of them have collapsed due to earthquakes.

Red Pyramid Dashur

Firstly we went to the Red Pyramid.  It is called the red pyramid because when the sun sets and rises, it looks red.  It is the tomb of King Senefro (son of Zoser who is king entombed at Step Pyramid and father of Cheops who was entombed at the big Giza pyramid) and 99 metres high and covering an area of 2.1 acres.

To get into the pyramid you firstly need to climb steps approx 1/2 way up the outside of the pyramid.  Mum was puffed (after several stops) by the time we got to the entrance (about 45 metres up) so I didn't know how she would be going inside.  Inside it is dark (I left my torch in the bus).  The shaft/tunnel is quite low and you have to

Red Pyramid Dashur

bend over to go down.  The ramp going down, has boards about every half metre to stop you slipping.  We went down and down and down.  It seemed like it took forever and was never going to end.  You have to remember that we were in a crouched position so the going was tough, especially for mum.  Several people turned back.  I thought mum would, but she persevered.

Eventually, we got to the chamber at the end, which had a vaulted roof and then steps up to another chamber.  It reeked with the smell of ammonia and was hot and musty, hard to breathe.  Not very impressive inside really but it feels pretty special when you think that it was built 1000's of years ago and appreciate the work that has gone into it.  Mum was puffed by the time she got in and didn't know how she was going to get back up.  I found it claustrophobic and kept thinking about earthquakes collapsing the pyramid and trapping us in inside!  I think the pessimistic viewpoint came from the fact that I couldn't breathe and the ammonia smell made it sickening.

We eventually made it back out.  I think we were actually quicker getting out than in although it was uphill.  On the way down it was so dark and you went by feel and didn't know how far you had to go.  After the first 50 metres or so, you could see daylight and it motivated you to move quickly.

Once we got out, mum's legs were like jelly and she didn't know how she'd climb down the steps 45 metres to the ground on slippery and dusty stones.  She made it though.  I was so proud of her.  It was a tough climb and she did it without complaint.  I don't think I saw anyone else her age who attempted it.  I must admit, I was very concerned that she was going to have a heart attack though and was wondering how we would get her out of such a narrow shaft if she couldn't make it herself.

You know the first thing she did when we got back to the bus?  Had a cigarette,  I couldn't believe it!  She was very thankful that she has been walking regularly as otherwise she wouldn't have been able to do it.

Bent Pyramid Dashur

We then went to the Bent Pyramid.  It started off at 59 degree angle as the king wanted it to be the tallest but at this angle it would have collapsed, so part of the way up they changed the angle to 52 degrees, which is the normal pyramid angle so therefore it looks bent.  We couldn't go close as it is within a military base so had to take pictures from outside the fence.  We had an army escort and were warned that we could not take photo's of the military complex or we'd end up in jail.

Dashur area. Typical country town

Next we drove through little rural towns.  It was unbelievable.  We stopped at a small street stall to buy water and there was some really cute kids playing in the street.  The kids don't see blonde hair very often and were staring at me and touching their own hair.  A couple of cute young girls got the courage to come over.  I gave them each Aussie badges I had taken with me (Kangaroos, Koala's and Boomerangs).  They had no idea what badges were and even less idea what Kangaroos, Koala's or Boomerangs are.  I had to show them how to put the badges on.  Very soon I had a crowd of kids wanting badges.  I handed out about 10.  They were so thankful and appreciative and smiled and smiled and waved.  You would have thought that I had given them more than just badges.

Washing Day near Faiyum

The life out here is hard but the people are so happy.  It is like going back in time to biblical days.  The little shanty's with the animals.  Many places have no running water and the kids or wives collect it from the Nile Canals.  We saw them washing pots and clothing in the canals, which is so dirty that I wouldn't consider giving it to the pets as drinking water.  Some houses are lucky enough to have the old hand pumps and the farms use donkeys or Buffalo walking around a post to pump water.

Buffalo are the most valuable animal as they provide milk as well as helping with labour.  How many years ago did Australia use animals to do their farm work?

Cairo is trying to be a modern city but the rural areas are happy to remain in the past.

The women and girls in this area all have their heads covered.  We didn't see one without.  We had to dress conservatively also.

We saw quite of few butchers shops with meat hanging outside in the heat.  Sometimes is was covered with cloth but mainly not.  Unfortunately, I couldn't get a photo as the bus was moving but will keep trying.

The fences here (if there are any) are made from sugar cane stalks tied together with more sugarcane.  Abit like a bamboo fence.  There are kids riding donkeys everywhere and donkeys which are so laden with produce you can hardly see the donkey.

The kids are so cute and wave madly at the bus, grinning from ear to ear if they get a wave back. The men however, did not looked so pleased to see the bus of tourists.  I even saw one spit at the bus.

It was just amazing to see.  Words cannot describe it.  I was so wishing that Alex was here to experience it with me.

Next stop El Faiyoum.