Terra Sur
Trip Start
Jan 27, 2008
1
86
112
Trip End
May 12, 2008
Chillan,
Chillan,
Chile
Friday, April 18, 2008
The train pulled away promptly. My seat had lotys of legroom, I was quickly offered a free newspaper, and coffee (900 pesos). I had a fold out table, airline style and was just getting comfortable when the ticket inspector informed me I should be in seat 32, coach 1, not coach 3. I was in first class and should have been in second Cama class. I had thought that due to the way the Rough Guide described the tickets on offer that I had bought first class
Rush Hour Dash To Estacion Central
. But he was cool about it and I moved about 50 minutes into the journey when I finished my coffee. My allocated seat was just as comfortable and the train not crowded. What I noticed most was how quiet it was - the absence of gobby teenagers swearing and shouting. It took a while to realise but thats why it was so pleasant.Outside the Andes emerged through the haze, and closer at hand, dusty black grapes hung from rusty vines. The Mediterrean scenery slowly turned more temperate as we haeded south and, when they were out of view, the only clue to the existence of the nearby Andes were the numerous flat, wide and dry riverbeds which were strewn with grey stones left by the last meltwaters.
At Curicon I spied a pile of , perhaps alpaca, fleeces on the station platform. I couldnīt decide if this was cargo or a bizzare example of public art. I tooka blurred photo.
We arrived at Chillan bang on time. It was 1pm and the Pachamama otur was due through at 3pm. Time to get some lunch. I chose a place opposite the station and obtained my chicken and rice by pointing at the specials board outside. A TV played to itself on the wall, as is the case in virtually all Chilean restaurants, the place was a little dingy but the food was good. Meal amd beer cost me 1700 pesos, about 2 quid.
The Pachamama bus rolled up at 2.40pm, 20 minutes early, and I was greeted by our guide, Melissa and Marcello, the driver.
