Nice and slow in Phnom Penh

Trip Start Dec 26, 2005
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Trip End Jan 25, 2009


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Where I stayed
The Pavilion

Flag of Thailand  , TH.40,
Thursday, October 1, 2009

I arrived in Phnom Penh at 4pm on Tuesday and was awe struck as to how flooded this country is... water absolutely everywhere.

Arriving in Cambodia is an experience in itself.  A tip for first comers is to try to sit as close to the front of the aeroplane as possible so you can get in the visa line first.  Also bring a photo to avoid having to pay the $US2 or B100 fine.  The visa for 1 month stands at $US20 and the process for getting one is pretty painless if you manage to get yourself to the front of the line - which I was very fortunate to have done given I was in row 7 (window) and made sure I was one of the first off.  You learn from previous experiences!  Don't be upset about the immigration guys taking your passport for a while - they are going through the motions of entering a one page stamp along with all the rest - about 10 immigration people do this.  They then call out your name after you have paid your money to the cashier.  This experience can be quite daunting for newcomers especially if you are at the back of the queue.

I'm staying at the Pavilion Hotel for US60 a night - a beautiful french colonial house - one of the best in Phnom Penh.  But in future, I will stay at either the Bougainvillier Hotel or The Quay.  I checked both hotel's suites last night and can highly recommend them.  The receptionists quoted me $US92 for the Bougainvillier and $US120 for The Quay.  The rooms are huge - Bougainvillier has Cambodian style rooms - but no lift - and The Quay has modern, contemporary rooms with exquisite bathrooms.  Both have rooms overlooking The Tonle Sap, have super friendly staff, restaurants, and in the best location along the busy and interesting river front.

I am amazed as to how the locals remember you from previous visits.  The Cambodians are amongst the friendliest people on Earth.

Whilst in Phnom Penh, it's important to take it easy and remain your calm especially when moving through the local traffic on the back of a tuk tuk.  Given the weather, I'm taking it especially easy - it's taken a few days to get use to it.  Yesterday, I revisited the S-21 and felt physically sick (the photos of graphic illustrations of torture, including to babies and young children, are just the most horrendous thing I've ever seen).  But a MUST visit to understand the pain of this country's past.  I also went to the killing fields again.  I felt so angry and sick to think that this happened.  What was more depressing was seeing several tourists crying.  I was glad to get away.  A tip - PLEASE get a taxi if coming to the killing fields - if not, wear a mask.  The roads are incredibly dusty and I was near choking as trucks passed my helpless tuk tuk.

I also visited Phnom Wat - a temple on a hill.

What I've noticed on this trip is the stench... but there are nice parts of Phnom Penh.  The extreme gap in wealth is also evident with the rich Khmer owning Lexus cars, living in beautiful French style houses whilst the poor ravage through the rubbish on the side of the roads and beg tourists for cash.  The economic disparaties here are clearly evident.

No sign of Aleks - I've heard through the grapevine that he's now living with a rich foreigner.  To tell you the truth, I knew that would happen! 

What I've noticed is that the expats and foreign tourists are especially friendly here... last night, I met Dave, a young 24 year old or so who is running an orphange just out of Battambang.  He is on a 1 week holiday here in Phnom Penh and was very interesting to talk to about the orphanages here, and Geraldine Cox.  Geraldine, who has a very good name in Australia and is doing remarkably well on the speaking tour, is apprantly very close to the Government which Dave's particular organisation questions.  I have also met several owners of property here which have given an incredible insight into the affairs of business etc. 

Today I intend on relaxing, maybe a massage, maybe a trip to the Russian Market. 
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