Reggae has never sounded sweeter
Trip Start Aug 31, 2008
7Trip End Sep 10, 2008
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Where I stayed
We left yesterday on a long boat for the hippy mecca that is Ton Sai.
It's full of rock climbers (some cool, some arrogant) and Thai stoners that run the bars and play bongos. I love this place. Oh, it also has manic bats, and horny monkeys.
The cliffs are amazing. It seems most of the rock climbers are German, and a few Israelis (who I think are the arrogant ones, but I'm trying not to do any racial profiling this trip)
The boat trip was too cool, I didn't have my camera on me so couldn't take any photos (sorry to the two, maybe three people that read this blog) but the water was turquoise the limestone cliffs jutted out over the water, and we passed hidden little coves on the way to hippyland
The Thai guys that run the chillout bar are cool. We went there last night for drinks and watched the electrical storm in the distance, and the fire twirlers in front of us)
There was a bat that kept swooping over Milli's head, before she realised and came running up to the bar where I was sitting. Pretty funny, we watched it do loops for about an hour before it got bored and flew off.
We could hear the monkeys before we could see them, screeching bastards. Milli's not a fan of them either, and I think one jerked off in a tree above her head, it landed on her hair. It was too funny, but then I felt something wet slide down the back of my head as well... we moved seats.
So we got up early, scrabbled for the breakfast and then left to organise a boat to our next stop. The only way to get there is by boat and we thought that a little isolated beach would be just dandy.
And yes, the boat ride was beautiful, sunny, blue skies, passing little rocky islands shooting out of the water, and one massive resort that was leaning into a private cove - no one got off there
Coming into our bay it was definitely a little more scruffy, just the way we liked it. Scuffy is our middle name! BOTH of us! No really! Didn't you know? Coincidence I know, were we meant to be together?! Ok enough...
So we jumped out with a couple of other people, walked left to the end of the beach and realised we should have walked right...walked back down to the other end of the beach and checked in. When the lady called upon a guy with his motorbike and side car I knew we weren't going to be nearby. We drove inland and up a hill with the rock cliffs on our right...amazing white and black in colour and with the appearance of it slowly dripping down, there are little nooks and crannies - some with chairs and ladders set up - and it could be a cave if it wasn't above ground. Very theatrical!
Our room is half a house, its beautiful. As Shane set about trying to confuse the power that a folded piece of Panadol box is the same as the plastic key for the A/C, the room lost power. So we backed out and went to get something to eat...
Later we got up the courage to ask about this little turn of events but was told the power is on from 5pm at night to 10am in the morning. It was about that time we reached the room so all was good.
Again, quite cheap but more up market than a thatched room, which we heard were going for about 2.50 Australian a night
Ahem. So we wandered around, looked for the monkeys that we'd seen in the blogs of people who visited here, but no go. Wondered if maybe they had been removed but who'd bother out here. Anyway, interestingly enough there is a large gap in the middle of the beach where no restaurants, hostels or bars are - not sure if that is because of the Tsunami or just the rent is too high.
Found a reggae bar, chatted to the locals there and Shane was in heaven.
Quite a few people are in groups and appear to have been here a while. Then there are the hell bent serious as a bastard rock climbers that go around alone or in twos - eating serious breakfasts of eggs, cereal, fruit - not in one go...though actually didn't see them eat it all so you never know...and wandering around with their T-shirt wrapped as a bandana on their heads. They are interesting to watch and as the cliffs jut over some of the bars and restaurants we have spent some time sitting drinking cocktails and watching them dangle precariously, chests heaving, and we then cheers each other for not being interested in such a loopy sport, and think about starting some sort of fitness regime...and then cheers ourselves again and down the next cocktail and we give each other accolades for not actually going through with any such regime...we are against war and fighting of any kind...flower power man....or leafy green power...whatever...
So we ate and drank and read our way through another lazy day, my responses getting slower and slower as I fall into Thai beach life
The reggae bar had three cats which all had collars which was different! When we went back later that night to the party they had told us about, there were many coloured balloons around, a strobe light, and minimal people. This worked for us but we felt sorry for them trying to make a buck. So we drank a lot...hehe
I sat down on some mats with a mosquito coil (absolute bastard attackers honing in on me of course) but I soon moved to the bar where Shane was ordering because there was a lone little bat who kept doing circles just above my head. Not sure if that was his spot on the matt that I'd taken, or if he just didn't like the smoke coiling around but he was manic...actually he probably had Rabies, suckled one to many necks of crazy hippies around here and just flipped....so stayed away from him. Watched too many Hollywood horrors to leave myself open for a bat in the face..
Then we saw the monkeys, little cutsey things that I kept my eye on for fear of them coming at me....like a spider monkey...sorry had to say that...
Definitely was the night for animals, as a little toad/frog (not as big as our ugly a-holes from Queensland, but not as cute as a little Brazilian green tree frog) hopped in to the bar - wish I had a good joke like the horse one right about now...
Anyway, the three cats played with him until one of the owners let him go. Didn't want to do it ourselves as there was the prospect of smoking later in the night...
Some Americans on honeymoon befriended us, he was a little intense but they seemed nice enough. They seemed fixated on my name...strange...if we were on the Transsiberian I would be getting away from them and their babushka dolls!! Ok, enough irrational Hollywood fears...
Its another lazy morning with cicadas making noise and I'm hungry so goodbye.