Panama

  Bocas del Toro, Panama
Saturday, December 20, 2008

Week 7

Costa Rica Panama Border

Costa Rica Panama Border 2

Friday. When I arrived at the border it was glaringly obvious that this was going to be a lot simpler than the last weeks border crossing. They had signs and no money was required to change hands. It is quite a picturesque crossing as you have to walk over a bridge on the Sixola River which seperates the two countries. On the Panamian side it was quite straight forward also, again no money changed hands (unless of course your American where they hit you up for about $35. They seem to get hit at every border which is quite amusing. Bolivia is the worst, wait for that figure!). After that it was time to haggle for a collectivo to Almirante, a port about 60 km away. After alot of head shaking and walking away a few times the driver agreed to take me for $5. I was impressed with my recently improved haggling skills as I think everyone else in the van was paying $10. An hour later I was in Almirante and about 40 minutes after that I was standing on the docks in Bocas (the principal town of Boacas Del Toro). Good progress.

Street Life Bocas Del Toro

Bocas Del Toro has a reputation for being one of the most picturesque parts of Panama. A beautiful collection of islands just off the Carribean coast.

Bocas Del Toro

Immediately I could sense an upbeat party atmosphere in Bocas which was confirmed by the backpackers in my hostel. After I settled I took a boat out to see one of the smaller islands. The atmosphere was alot more laid back and less touristy.

Bocas Del Toro 2

I had a fantastic Thai meal overlooking the ocean and chatted to the locals (mostly speaking English creole). They were puttig up their christmas decorations, playing christmas carols and playing in the streets. It felt like christmas for the first time albeit quite strange to be standing in 32 degree heat in the Carribean.

Playa Bluff

Some serious potholes

Saturday I hired a bike and decided to do some exploring around the island. I headed for a beach, Playa Bluff, about 8 km outside of Bocas. Extremely difficult to negotiate the potholes but the hour long cycle was worth it as I arrived at the most stunning beach I have been on and not a single other person on it. It curves for a few kilometers into the distance. It has beautiful dark golden sand and very high powerful waves that break just a couple of metres form the shore. I would have loved to have tried some swimming but the current was just far too strong for me. 

Mainland Panama

Sunday was mainly spent hiding from the sun with a serious hangover from Saturday night. I left Bocas for the mainland again on Sunday evening to catch a 12 hour nightbus to Panama City. Again I would have definitely spent longer in Bocas if I had more time. It had fantastic nightlife and many beaches to choose from on the various islands. The weather had been fantastic also, the first time in two weeks! The overnight bus journey was a joke. The bus was freezing and we were awoken about 6 times in the journey to get off the bus for food stops, refuelling, a bus change and a passport inspection. As soon as I arrived in my hostel in Panama City I went straight to bed to get some sleep.  

Week 8

Panama Canal Rail

I awoke in the afternoon, perfect timing to visit the Panama Canal. At approximately 3.30 the biggest ships pass through the docks heading for the Pacific Ocean. There was a viewing platform above the docks and running commentary was given in English and Spanish, detailing the operating procedures and the costs.

Miraflores Docks Panama Canal

The ships are driven through the docks by specially trained canal drivers. This is the only time the captain of the ships will hand control over to somebody else. The ships most pay their toll 48 hours in advance in cash. Amazing when you think that the toll for

Looking East Towards Altantic Direction

one of the biggest ships like you see in the photos will be around 300,000 American Dollars. Huge amounts of cash must be coming onsite everyday!  In the museum I found a computer with records of every person that has worked on the canals construction. I looked for my family names and found that 10 Murtagh´s have worked on it and 1 Shanley. It was quite amusing to see that the Shanley only lasted 3 days! *tut tut mum, what a reflection on the family!* 

Panama City

Tuesday morning was another early start for the airport to catch a flight to Bogota, Colombia. I have reached the end of my Mexico and Central American journey. It has been a fantastic seven and a bit weeks and there have been plenty of ups and downs so far. I am quite looking forward to South America and I expect it to be a refreshing change. The people have a reputation of being friendlier and the countries nicer and more stunningly beautiful. 



I will round off this entry with some awards and gereral observations about Mexico and Central America.

What I liked:
The weather.
Cheap food.
Cheap beer.
Fantastic beaches and the oceans.
The huge amounts of animals I got to see in their natural habitats.
The warmth and friendliness of the people.
The possibilty of haggling down the price of almost anything.


What I disliked:
Buses.
People trying to sell you crap constantly everywhere you go.
Bus drivers stopping every 30 seconds to let people on to sell you crap.
Cash machines (lack thereof/refusal to dispense cash) and huge queues for them.
Cheap food.
Ambiguity at border crossings.
Ambiguity at bus stations.
Out of towner taxes. (I had expected this from hearing Yatesy´s excursions). 
Slowness of internet.
Frequent power cuts. 
The lack of hot water in most of the countries.
Having to put your toilet paper in the bin.

Some noticable generalisations:
Children are extremely well behaved. In public they will sit still, not shout or bother anyone. It was so strange it really stood out so much. Makes you wonder about children back home and why they behave as they do.
The people are less friendly as you move south. The people in Guatemala and Mexico are fantasticly warm and friendly whereas the poeple further south just seem to want your money.
The are constant fireworks/bangers everyday in pretty much every village, town and city.
The people on the Carribean coast in each country are very different to those in the rest of the country. The atmosphere on the coast is very different and it doesn´t feel Latin at all.
The coastal areas are generally cleaner and nicer places than the mainaland.

Awards
Nicest people: Mexican / Guatemalan.
Best city: Mexico City, Mexico.
Best town: Antigua, Guatemala.
Worst place: San Pedro Sula, Honduras.
Best view: Lago De Atitlan, Guatemala / Monteverde, Costa Rica.
Most beautiful place: Agua Azul, Mexico.
Best moment: Having a 10 minute conversation solely in Spanish at Lago De Atitlan.
Worst moment: Arriving in Copan, Honduras, at night during a power cut with no money, no food and nowhere to stay.