Antigua

  Antigua Guatemala, Western Highlands, Guatemala
Friday, November 28, 2008

Thursday.
Wow! Immediately life seems so much easier and organised here again. Antigua is not like the rest of Guatemala, weternised and some would say snobby or a little bit stuck up. Here you are just as likely to find Chicken Katsu or bagel cafes as authentic guatemalan food. It also is home to the first Irish bar I had met on my travels. I never thought it would take this long. I was confident I could get my Spanish lessons and was happy to spend the next 5 days or so here. It meant sacrificing a little more time elsewhere but having more Spanish would be worth it. 

Treking up through the mist

Along with 5 half days of Spanish I could afford a couple of tours. A trek up an active volcano, Pacaya, and a day at Lago de Atitlan, one of the most picturesque lakes in the world. Setting off Saturday afternoon we were advised to bring some insulating clothes and a flashlight. A two hour drive through fantastic mountainous countryside (of which there seems to be no end of in Central America) go us to the trek entrance about two thirds of the way up the mountain.

Lava River Pacaya

We were greeted by about 50 of the local kids determined to sell sticks and flashlights. The kids gave a harder sell then most and I had thought about buying a stick just to defend myself. It was another hour trek to the summit and gradually the soil turned darker and darker until it was black.

Better than the stuff from Miltownpass

The mist descended and visibility was down to about 5 metres and it began to get quite cold. Eventually the terrain changed to loose sharp volcanic rock and out of the mist the feint glow of lava began to appear. A steep final 5 minute scramble up very loose rock brought is to the edge of a lava river. This was the furthest we were alowed to ascend as the lava moves relatively slowly here and further up near the crater there can be violent eruptions. Underfoot changes reasonably quickly and where you were standing 5 minutes earlier can have changed to lava ozzing up through the surface. About 2 metres was about as close as I could get to the river and even that was for a few seconds as the heat was too intense to bear. After a quick break and some roasted marshmallows we descended back down to base by torchlight.

Lago De Atitlan

Sunday, I had an early start on a bus to Lago De Atitlan, approximately 3 hours drive from Antigua. Surrounded by 4 volcanoes the drive alone to the drop off point at Pena was impressive. I have run out of superlatives to describes the scenery in Mexico and Guatemala, I canīt imagine how much I will struggle for words in South America. From Pena I availed of an expensive but worthwhile private boat tour of the lake. I swam in some natural hot springs in the lake and visited two of the indigenous villages on the lake edge. It as the first time I had visited a pure indigenous village on this trip.

Lago De Atitlan 2

These are the "poorest" people in the country and are looked down upon by many, but when you see their seemily joyful uncomplicated tranquil lifestyles in the most beautiful surroundings it really does make you question that statement of poverty. There are also many western style villas dotted along the shoreline and in the cliffs,

Later in the day

many with private access to the shore and their own pools and helipads. I asked my guide about the cost of one of these as astounded to hear 1-2 million quatzales will get you pretty much any of them, thas about 80-160 thousand pounds. With of a view of this lake it puts London property prices into perspective. All in all plenty of food for thought.


Week 5
Meanwhile my lessons every morning were going well and could now hold basic conversations with people and understand many things if spoken slowly enough. On Monday evening I felt quite tired from the weekends activities and the "early" starts for spanish school.  I decided to push on for Honduras after my last lesson on Tuesday morning. There was a guy from Hull, Olly, staying in my hostel who is on the last 3 weeks of a year long trip. His itinerary is identical to mine over the next 17 days or so, so I will catch up with him in Copan, Honduras and travel with him until San Jose, Costa Rica.