Monks, mantras and monsoon

Trip Start Apr 12, 2005

104

Trip End ??? ??, 2006

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Flag of India McLeod Ganj, India
Saturday, April 30, 2005

Went back to the temple today for the burning ceremony and dismantling of the sand mandala. It was lovely to sit there for an hour or so just listening to the monks chanting (although a certain part of it sounded distinctly like they were saying 'wanker' even if it did have 'om' either side of it) They had a roaring log fire into which they poured offerings of grains and oils - there were LOTS of offerings! The action then moved into the temple (yes the fire was outside) for more chanting and the most senior monk selecting areas of the mandala to put to one side, not sure what the significance of this was as the monks then scraped up all the sand to give to the waiting hordes who had folded paper cones to catch it in - yes I have some, although my cone was the smallest as it was hastily fashioned from a post-it note! The good news was we all got to film and take photos in the temple which is normally forbidden due to the works of art in there.

Butter sculptures

After all this I attempted to drink some soup - I have had pains in my chest and back which get worse when I swallow so I haven't had much to eat or drink. However being faced with green slimy spinach soup wasn't the way to go so I gave up after a few mouthfuls and went to buy Dairy Milk instead - it doesn't taste the same as back home but it's much better than the Hershey's vomit-tasting stuff that you get in the US (sorry, but it's true).

Met Victoria from the room next door as we were standing on the landing watching the rain bucketing down the valley - yep it really is monsoon season. She and Henry have been teaching in Bangalore and travelling around for a while, before they go off to university.

Last night I bumped into Mya after the internet and went for dinner with her and Vinnie to the Shambala - scrambled eggs and mash was all I could manage but it went down well! She recommended that I go see a film that was showing, 'The Tibetan Book of the Dead' which shows how they approach the period just before and after death, interesting but quite upsetting to watch. Then went home to try and sleep on my back as lying on my side was too painful.

Sand mandala

So today I got up and went to see the doctor down near the temple - he said I had gastritis from something I'd eaten (probably the dodgy beans and rice on the way to Jammu) and gave me four types of tablets to take over the next couple of days. As I went back up the road I was invited in for tea by the Kashmiri guy I bought my bangle from the other day and ended up staying for lunch, the first time I had a go at eating Indian style i.e. just with your right hand and no cutlery - quite good fun. Then went back to the Om and had coffee and chocolate cake - yep some things never change!

It's now just after eight on a Saturday night so the pub is beckoning, let's see if that swallowing pain has gone yet....Tomorrow I'll check out the buses for Delhi - 12 hours, yey! Then on to Agra, Varanasi and Nepal, hopefully.

Well I went to McLlo's bar and had cider that tasted like vinegar (I was warned)and watched a fight break out in the street below - sam Saturday night everywhere then.

Sunday went to the gompa with Victoria and Henry, it's a gorgeous place, their temple is much nicer than the big one as it's based on the one at Lhasa in Tibet, all wooden floors and colourful pendants - I resisted the urge to hit the gong though....But the best bit was the director was telling us all about the place, he was so proud of it all, then because they were gardening he asked if we'd like to plant some flowers and stuff! Well actually mine was a bush, I took a photo so if I go back I can see how it's faring - how cool is that?

So tonight I'm off back to smelly Delhi to move down to Agra - more from there...