The Random Factor
Trip Start Sep 09, 2004
394Trip End Ongoing
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If ever you pass inland from Narooma to Bega you need to stop in Cobargo for a snackeroo. Not that you would venture inland if you were travelling up or down the Sapphire Coast, but if you were on a bike and were looking to get a blinder of a ride, you'd probably want to head inland at this point anyway. See, from Bega and on through Cooma, you end up in the snowies: perfect roads, perfect scenery and a beautiful twisting route that takes you between the Kosciuszko and Alpine National Parks. Utterly utterly sublime and guaranteed to have you grinning from ear to ear. Just make sure you have plenty of tread on your tyres. We didn't. In fact, we lost a good hour and half in Bega fitting a new tyre to the Guzzi, after most of the internal woven fabric had started to push through. Very close call. Lucky it was spotted, and so was Charlie. Lucky to see daylight that is.
Stopping in Cobargo for refreshments is a great idea, because it means you can take a load off in the 'train cafe'. It's not actually called the train cafe but it's a cafe built around an old restored train carriage which serves as a dining area - very novel, very agreeable and a great place to take a break. Charlie loved it, especially when he shovelled in the first mouthful of his cheesy crepe, but then he's about as easy to please as I am. Actually it's great being back on the road with Sir Charles. His erratic riding and sudden mad manoeuvres are almost as good value as his classic one-liners:
'You know, if we'd have passed a brothel last night, I reckon I'd have paid good money for a hooker to massage my arse..'
..And so we hit the Snowy Mountains. What a paradise. Up through the lofty alpine villages of Jindabyne and Thredbo - resort-y type places, expensive places, but remote, spacious and full of crisp clean mountain air. By the time dusk rolled in we were miles from anywhere and still up in the roof of Kosciuszko. The nearest township was Khancoban but we were still in the tight and twisties, not the best place to be on two wheels at this time of day. By nightfall we were still going strong, and shitting ourselves at the prospect of a sudden unexpected encounter with a seven foot roo. Just then we saw the lights of Corryong. The relief was like morphine.
Out of every place that offered lodgings, just one had a room. It was their last so we snapped it up and signed the book, while savouring the charm and wit of the lively landlord. Sorted, but time was ticking, so in true Benny Hill fashion we tucked the bikes round the back of the pub, slung our bags in the room and legged it down to the local tavern for a feed - where we ordered and paid just in the nick of time to secure a meal. 8pm again!
By the time we'd sunk another cheeky the place was empty and ready to close for the night. This is where the random factor kicked in. I'd just come out of the bathroom and was heading outside to leave, when I noticed Charlie and some random guy getting into a car. 'Hey Scotty, wanna go to a party?! nudged Charles, who was winking in the direction of the very attractive young barmaid who was offering to drive us there. I ran... and jumped... straight through the back window and we all sped off into the horizon..
Where I stayed
The Court House Hotel