Jerusalem, Old and New
Trip Start
Aug 31, 2008
1
7
14
Trip End
Sep 18, 2008
Jerusalem,
Israel
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Our drive to Jerusalem on Sunay afternoon was quite something. Our driver took us on a lesser used, locals highway that crossed the Israeli/Palestinian 'green line' at a couple of points along the West Bank. For some of the drive (many miles) we followed the security fence, an 18 foot high (or higher at points) concrete wall, that separates the Palestinian areas from Israeli territory. Another lesson in the price paid for a fragile peace and the steps that have to be taken to give Israelis some sense of safety in their daily lives. Our driver also took us on a quick tour of one of the larger 'settlements' on the West Bank. An idyllic, bucolic setting of homes and shops high atop a hill, very nice but for the surrounding Palestinain settlemets that would prefer to raze the houses and shops to the ground.
This quick journey through the geo-politic of the region soon gave way to the madness that is Jerusalem traffic. Beyond description, nerve wracking and complete anarchy best describes it, and after a wild ride through the city streets we were dropped at our Harmony Hotel. A very cool, brand new boutique type hotel (reminiscent of W chain in America) in the heart of about 6 square blocks of pedestrian only streets full of shoppping, restaurants and night clubs. A great place to come home to, have some dinner and maybe a drink or two (you've already seen the picture). And as for touring, well we wore ourselves and our feet out in the first 48 hours here.
The Old City is amazing, and no movies, photos, or guide books do justice to the intensity, diversity, noise, sights and emotions you experience as you walk through the gates. Ancient roman shopping streets and stalls now house modern tourist shops and cafe's. In the Arab quarter there are literally hundreds of shops in the souk district, run by very agressive and quite frankly, nasty shop owners. A jarring exeprience the first time you endure it. But these streets give way on either side in the Christian quarter and especially the Jewish quarter to more peaceful lanes and nicer shops and the most amzaing sights. It is quite the feeling to suddenly step into the places and onto the pavement that have for so long been just a part of soemthing we have read about or been taught. Whether it is the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre or an ancient 760 BCE wall, and so may places in between, the layers of human civilization are in evidence everywhere you look and step. I could go on and on, but suffice it to say we have spent a good day and a half in the old city and have baely scractched the surface on the palces we want to see.
Then there is the new Jerusalem, outside the walls of the old city. Streets full of life and a passion for living. A huge 4 square blocks market of the most incredible freshly baked breads, spices, fruit, where it seems the whole city shops. Amazing cafe's and restaurants serving every type of food imaginable. I don't think anyone eats, drinks or parties indoors in this city and that makes for a party like atmosphere every night on every street, at least where we are. Today we took the hop-on/off #99 bus around most of the city just to get a sense of the size of the place....huge. None of the guide books relate the true size of the new Jerusalem or talk about the terrain of this place, which is a city built on the steepest of slopes and deepest of valleys. When the bible speaks of the Judean hills we now know exactly what this refers to. Even the size of the old city is a surprise, far larger and quite tough going when you consider the uneveness of the paving stones and the steepness of the climb to get in and out of the ancient city.
On our drive tody we also took time out to see the Yad Vashem Museum dedicated to the remembrance of the holocaust. A stark, gut wrenching history lesson that will linger long after this trip is over. Never forget, never again. Anything more that I could write will do little to convey what we saw, but this museum is something every person should see.
On a lighter note, Chris's birthday dinner at the King David was quite fun. We hooked up with Rabbi Harry and his wife Rayanne, here on sabbatcial from the Victoria synagogue. We had a great dinner at the King David, a great old world hotel full of history and still the meeting place and sleeping place of heads of state when they visit Israel...Pres. Bush, Condi Rice and B. Obama have all stayed here in just the last few months. Our dining room overlooked the old city walls and much good fun was had by those of us who showed up to celebrate with Chris on his birthday. Chris passes along his thanks and appreciation to all of you who posted birthday greetings on the blog and to his private email.
Tomorrow we are off to Masada, the Dead Sea and Ein Gedi on a full days tour. The weather says it will be 37 degrees with 45% humidity at the lowest point of land on earth - where we are going...in other words, we're going to hell!...Should be fun and will post on our return...So long for now, and I will try and post a few more pictures in a separate post to follow...
Tomorrow is also Sept 11...take a moment to remember....Shalom from Jerusalem
