So that's where all the Murderers got to...

Trip Start Aug 22, 2005
Trip End Feb 06, 2006

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Flag of Indonesia  ,
Sunday, October 16, 2005

Oh dear... crummy guesthouse ahoy.

My memories of Makassar, the old colonial port will be forever marred by three scummy men trying to break into my hotel room at 4am...

I had double locked the door with my own lock before sleeping thank god, but it was pretty old and they had broken the slats off on the windows! Bastards. Luckily they only encountered bars on the window and my rape alarm in their ears. I am still waking up at night thinking I'm hearing `miss, miss open the door, take the lock off the door`!!

At first light I hotfooted it to the airport and got one of those amazingly cheap domestic flights halfway across Sulawesi. Brilliant plan.

I think part of the problem was that Sulawesi isn't a traveled part of Indonesia at the best of times, let alone off-season, so there are no travelers here at all. I don't understand it though, as the Toraja are some of the most interesting people I studied (I'll tell you later about their funeral rights when I get to Tana Toraja) and the diving is world-renowned. Throw in all the trekking opportunities and the National parks (complete with fist sized tarsiers!!) and I have know idea why it's not overrun! To be honest, it's apparently the least well connected of all the islands in the archipelago. I had to fly in, and even though the flights are cheap they are unreliable and often cancelled, so not ideal for anyone other than backpackers with oodles of time on their hands.

Now I'm staying in a beautiful cottage at the bottom of an active volcano! The lady who runs it has been so welcoming and it's been great to have a conversation with a woman for once, especially about her own country. I visited a multi coloured sulphurous lake today, the colours change according to time of day and light levels. There's also an eclipse on Friday, and with no light pollution here whatsoever that should be grand.

I'm off to one of the `greatest places in the world to dive` in a week. I can't wait to see the turtles and sharks.

That's right after I get my partner in crime back!

I'll still travel alone as I wanted to, but not here. Marcus got my email telling him what happened and I suggested he might like to come here and learn to dive, so he just moved his flight forward! Perfect.
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