Lost in Laos
Trip Start
Jul 01, 2006
1
3
18
Trip End
Sep 20, 2006
Luang Prabang,
Lao Peoples Dem Rep
Sunday, July 30, 2006
We were crammed like sardines into a tiny fishing-style vessel which was meant to take about 40 people, but thought nothing of squeezing 80 'farang' (Thai for 'foreigners', although I'm sure it carries some negative connotations that we're not entirely briefed on) into this little boat. Jules & I were squeezed up next to the drying fish and backpacks, whilst we felt the boat spin out in all directions on the huge whirlpools, that is the Mekong. The alternative, fast-boaters were whizzing by meanwhile, their passengers equipped with crash helmets and neck-braces (the main reason really we opted for the slow-boat as we heard that these speedsters have weekly fatalities. Seeing them go, I can easliy believe it as they such lightweight boats with too bigger engines attached - they look more like hovercrofts ready to launch out of the water). Anyway, one thing about being sandwiched 5cms apart from strangers for two whole days, is that you're best of friends (or killed one another) by the end of it. As it truns out we ended up having a huge group of new friends with whom we shared many laughs, stories and beers over the next couple of days in Luang Prabang (LP).
LP is something to behold, for even the most jaded of travellers. In typical Laos style, it is super laid-back and full of young monks and novices walking the streets. The french-colonial influence is apparent in the architecture and cuisine with baguettes and strong Laos coffee being the standard breakfast order. We ended up spending a week there, exploring the craft and fresh produce markets, the many wats, and neighbouring hill tribe villages on bike, accompanied by our cousin, Micah, whom we finally to managed to meet up with. We also took a three day rafting, mountain-biking and trekking tour which really got us into the surrounding mountains and managed to meet up with Kerry & Troy (who were finishing off their world tour) and spent the day rafting with them. Jules treated me to a full-body Lao massage for my B'day...which was more like a visit to the chiropractor - having every joint in your body clicked (and in places you hadn't imagined you should have joints)...but without the ability to communicate your concerns....ow, yes, that's the tight ITB you standing on right now, but dont' worry I'll grin and bear it, coz' you dont understand what I'm saying anyway, and will just continue smiling sweetly while you torture me.. I have to admit, I did feel a lot better afterwards though.
I was also sung Happy Birthday in six diffferent languages (English, Dutch, German, Slovenian, Maorie & Finish) by our extended circle of friends, topped off with cocktails at the only bar in town which stays open till 11.30pm (the government has a regulation that all restaurants & bars should close by 10.30pm, but some manage to stretch the opening hrs a little longer). After staying through two new sets of slow-boat arrivals, we decided it was time to move on, and so went to Vang Vieng - a paradoxical little town of TV bars/cafes surounded by breathtaking karst formations and a river running right through it - a backpacker haven for outdoor activies, but a town with no real soul.
We spent the first evening, lounging in Hammocks, listening to Bob Marley and drinking Beer Lao (feeling stoned just from the atmosphere.....or maybe the 'Special' garlic bread?!?). The next day we did a tubing rite of passage down the Nam Song, stopping enroute to jump off 7m high overhangs and bat-style zip slides. We decided to 'go-it-alone' with the caving and hired a dinky 100cc motorbike (covered under our travel insurance, mom) to take us to the cave triangle. We picked up a local guide to explore one of the deeper caves and I think it was here that we parted with the traditional tourist path. Jules & I had a few moments of doubt when our little primordial guide became increasingly gleeful (dancing in his underwear & licking his chops) as he lead us deeper into the cavern (reportedly 3kms long), far flung from the buddha temples at the entrance. When we were asked to hold our breath and swim under a tunnel (assured by our guide that there was another 'bigger' cavern on the other side), I worried that It just might just be our last breath, whilst Jules was concerned about frying from her headlight, whose live wires were simply wound around the battery terminals. Anyway...we survived to tell the tale & had an amazing experience. Still high with adrenaline (and a few extra-special mulberry shakes at the organic farm), we raced the wind and rain on our return home, only to narrowly miss a 2-metre long King Cobra which had come onto the road (probably for warmth). My driving skills (with Julia hanging on the bike) improved considerably when we had to take a tricky diversion between the head of the snake, an oncoming truck and a herd of buffalo (...the tame variety which people keep as pets & eat). I don't quite know what it is about me & snakes, but we've manged to come up-close and personal with three so far!
We then kayaked down to Vientienne (the only mad ones who wanted to take single kayaks).....and after both losing face in being thrown off at the first rapid, managed to skillfully negoiate the other two (...well actuallly, Jules success rate was a little lower, but she always got spat out somewhere downstream) We in Vientienne now - another city, which never really excites either of us - but we're getting our Vietnam visas processed and will be be off to Hue on the 30th July.
To all those at home, we're thinking of you & I would also just ask you to spare a thought (and prayer) for Lara's mother, Bridgette, who has been (re)diagnosed with cancer.
