Leba
Trip Start
Apr 07, 2006
1
7
108
Trip End
Jan 02, 2007
Leba, Poland
Wednesday, April 19, 2006
I had thought about going for a run but it was a noisy night with men talking. I slowly got ready a little while later. I got the bus fine but it didn't call in at the same place as it picked me up yesterday so as it went past the station I pointed to 'train station' in my book and the driver nodded at the next stop. I didn't have far to go back but then it took awhile to find the entrance. I was in good time for the train but it was very busy. All I know is it leaves at 08:47 and goes to Gydnia but not what time it arrives. I found a compartment with space and a lad helped me up with my bag. I read and slept. The countryside was flat, with posh farms building like in Germany. &nbs p; &nbs p;
We had a few stops without stations, at the stations I could check in my book to keep an idea of where we were. We had gone west at first to Bydgoszcz and then north to Tczew; here I knew we were nearly there. The book said that trains from the south didn't stop in Gdansk so I stayed on the train when it stopped there as I had made up my mind to keep going. At Gydnia I found out a few trains for Lebork but as I had to wait 1 hour 20 minutes I went in search of bus times but no joy. I bought a slice of pizza not knowing when I would next eat although I had already had lunch of two pasties that I bought yesterday. &n bsp; .
I sat and ate that on the platform. The train was very packed I didn't try to go down the narrow passages, as they were full of standing people. Instead I sat on my bag outside the toilet but it was only a 45 minutes journey. &nbs p; .
Buses were just across the road from the station. I tried to get on one that said Leba and he said to wait 5 minutes so I went to see about train times for my return. I sat near the back of the bus to keep my bag next to me and out of other peoples way. Lovely countryside again with loads of trees. I had no map of Leba but enough detail to find the tourist information just before it shut. A German couple had just asked the same questions so the girl drew on a local map some cheap places to stay. Two of the 3 places were shut, I didn't try the other. The Germans went to try the Hotel Neptun but at 80 pounds a night I went elsewhere. Everywhere has signs saying 'free rooms'. I presume you have to pay it's just a direct translation from the German. I knocked on one door no answer but there was a guy on his balcony opposite so I asked him and a lady appeared 8 pounds sounds much better to me. My own room but shared bathroom and kitchen although no one else is here. & nbsp; & nbsp; .
I went shopping and rang mum and dad before taking an evening stroll along the river past the marina and along the beach. Perfect blue skies really nice but very cold. I did my washing, found CCN in English on the TV and had tea. &n bsp;
Thursday 20th of April.
I started the day with a run up to the national park. It was free to enter, as it's not May as yet hence everything being shut everywhere. That's when the tourist season starts. It was a cool morning with a couple of drops of rain. Cars can run the first 2.5km from Leba to the Slowinski National park then it all on foot. It was a rough but good track. I had access to the lake at one point where boats in the summer take tourists across to other sights across the lake. I heard and could just see a woodpecker. I continued the full 8 km to the site of the Dunes That Walk! This is the only place in the world where the sand dunes move on such a scale up to 10m a year. Trees disappear beneath the sand to reappear decades later as stumps. The area is included in UNESCO's list of World Biosphere reserves and there are signs everywhere saying don't do this, that and the other to protect the fragile land. I walked on top of the dune where I was alone with views of the lake behind and the sea ahead. Then onto the beach and I ran back to Leba. A very good start to the day. &n bsp; &n bsp; .
I bought fruit and veg. and then went in search of information on hiring a bike but there was no one in the tourist office. I tried again later and ended up behind the office on the Internet. &nb sp; .
I got out of the Internet place and found people in the tourist office they told me where to get a bike from and also reassured me that the skansen at Kluki was open. A skansen is a village laid out, as ancient Polish one would have been like. I bought a map, which was in more details than the book. & nbsp; .
I managed to hire a bike easily, speaking German with the guy. He said I should make it fine but I had to be back by 20:00, it was already 14:30 and I had 23 km to travel. I was advised to go on the road for the first 5km and then it was lovely off road paths through a forest. Really nice. At times I was a bit nervous due to sand covering the path and I slid around a lot. It was a lovely flat ride and part of a maintained route along the south side of the lake. There were little signs with bikes on and R10, so I knew I wouldn't get lost. I saw two white-tailed deer and heard loads of birds but then this is a nature reserve. After an hour I reached Gac, half way. A tiny settlement without much in the way of a road to it, just a dirt track. The main path through it was made of cobbles but luckily the side was smoother. I was missing my cycling shorts a lot! &n bsp; .
I had a break just past Gac and suddenly thought I wonder what time the skansen stays open until as it would be awful to get there at 16:30 and it shut at 17:00. The map agreed with my book, it's out of season so it's 15:00. It was already shut! So much for the helpful tourist information. .
I wasn't sure what to do, as it was a lovely day, dark skies but not raining yet. I could keep going just in case or return having enjoyed my day out already (I had run 12 miles this morning). My bottom shouted loudest (not literally) and I decided to return. I noticed in no time at all that the darkness seemed to lift and I no longer worried about rain as the clouds cleared and it was beautiful when I got back to Leba. Cold but clear skies. I took the lakeside path all the way, sandy but fine. The last 4 km were out of the trees and a long side the lake. It's very marshy and had high reed all along. I could hear the birds but saw few. &n bsp; .
I think the guy who rented me the bike knew I wouldn't be long as he had kept saying 20 zloty for all day or 4 an hour, pay when you get back. & nbsp; .
As I walked back to my guesthouse I noticed old railway carriages with balconies added, they were probably also used as guest rooms in the high season. I made myself tea and settled down to watch CNN. &n bsp; &n bsp; &n bsp;
