Part 2 - Oscar and Gustavo

Trip Start Apr 13, 2008
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Trip End Jun 03, 2008


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Flag of Argentina  ,
Tuesday, April 15, 2008

The cafÃf© La Carreteria is mentioned in the Lonely Planet Guide to Buenos Aires for its cheap food and laid back bohemian atmosphere so not surprisingly you will find both foreign tourists and artists and musicians mingling here. In fact the ownerÃ'´s daughter herself is a singer (she has notices advertising her services as a teacher) and often takes up the microphone positioned permanently in one corner if she feels in the mood.  Oil paintings featuring indigenous designs from the Jujuy province http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jujuy_Province line the painted plaster walls and the cafÃf© also specialises in the spicy food styles from this region.

The cafÃf© was packed for a Sunday mid evening so I was grateful when Gustavo offered me to share his table. Aged in his 50s, casually dressed and with a pleasant face, he proved to be a friendly table companion.  He was waiting for his takeaway order of empanadas - rolled up pastry snacks which can hold anything from different meats to vegetables, creamed corn or even apple which are the staple snack foods of  many countries in South America Che
Che
 . There are dozens of recipes on line for this delicious snack - here is just a sample:
http://gosouthamerica.about.com/cs/southamerica/a/Empanada.htm http://www.cdkitchen.com/recipes/cat/1121/0.shtml

Gustavo helped me to order my supper (empanadas and a mixed salad) and we shared a bottle of red wine while waiting (nothing is rushed in a Buenos Aires cafÃf© ) and he asked me what I was doing in South America.  Our conversation then turned to our various jobs - Gustavo works as a  fiscal lawyer  for the government. We  even started chatting about the ongoing fights between Argentine primary producers and the authorities over pricing and regulations ( now thereÃ'´s a familir woe).  Well, letÃ'´s just say I think that was what our conversation was about - my jet lag was starting to hit me. 

GustavoÃ'´s box of empanadas finally came and, being the gentleman he was, he waited till my own dinner arrived before he took his leave - farewelling me with a kiss on the cheek and an open invitation to come round for a Sunday lunch. 

CafÃf©s in Buenos Aires are the social centres for porteÃf±os - a place to eat cheaply, catch up with friends and plan protests.  Truly a sign of  a civilised nation is the richness and vibrancy of its cafÃf© culture  - a wonderful legacy of European immigration Gardel
Gardel
 .

IÃ'´ll introduce you to a few more  famous BA cafÃf©s later - but firstly, an introduction from an expert in these things:
http://www.livinginargentina.com/famous_cafes_snippets_of_a_report-681.html

And to finish, some music from one of the greatest cafÃf©artistes of all time from one of the greates cities in Europe renowned for its cafÃf© tradition.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFRuLFR91e4
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