Coastal hamlet and the most beautiful beach

Trip Start Apr 27, 2012
Trip End May 02, 2012

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Where I stayed
Malvani Pahunchar
What I did
Tarkarli beach, Deobagh beach,
Karli backwaters, Tsunami Island

Flag of India  , Maharashtra,
Saturday, April 28, 2012

The sand IS white and the water IS blue. I can now vouch for all that you read about the white sands and the blue seas in Tarkarli.
We headed to the MTDC resort for lunch. The location of the place makes you forget the ordinariness and the expensiveness of the food. Its right on the beach, and they serve food out in the open, under the trees from where you see the sand and the sea all the way to the horizon.They have these wooden shacks along the beach, where we chilled till our lunch was being prepared.
The convenient  thing about Tarkarli is, almost every house along the road to the beach is a homestay. We stayed at one such place called Malvani Pahunchar(Hospitality of Malvan). Its run by the Karalakr family. Its a simple place, with just the basics, but its clean and airy, surrounded by trees. So you hear the birds chirping all the time. Right outside our window was a Kokam tree, we could see the ripe purple fruits hanging, about to fall. The Karalkar family stays just next to the rooms. They don't have a fridge in the house, so they don't provide food to their guests. The guys at the resort across this place, Visawa, agreed to serve dinner.

With all the arrangements sorted, we went for a nice afternoon nap. Its amazing how you appreciate the bed after just one night on the bus !! We woke up much later than anticipated, and set off for a walk on the Tarkarli beach. The resort Visawa has a private beach, through which we entered the main beach. It is certainly the most beautiful beach I have seen on the Konkan coast. Though not exactly unpopulated, its clean and white. You see the Sindhudurg fort on one side, and some islands in between. No looming city, ship lights over the horizon. Just the blue sea. Its just beautiful. It also does make you realise you are far off from any ill effects that being close to Mumbai can cause. 

Another prominent difference is the accent. You start hearing the slow lingering Malvani language or the accent everywhere. 

Also, a common mode of transport here, is the bicycle. You see students, men as well as women using the bicyle to commute. We found of a place that rents out these bicycles, but didn't get a chance to actually ride one.
One of the things to do in Tarkarli, is a backwater ride. The Karli creek separates Malvan from Vengurla. Just a little ahead of Tarkarli, is a village called Deobagh, where this Karli meets the sea. The local people refer to this point as Sangam, and take you for a boat ride upto this Sangam point. There is also another sea water ride which takes you to Nivti beach and they say you can spot dolphins there. But around this time of the year, they close this ride because the sea starts getting rough.

While strolling down the beach in the evening, we met a guy who takes you on these rides. We booked a ride with him for the next morning. We had already fixed up with an autorichshaw guy to drop us to this spot. 

Tarkarli to Deobagh is a continuous 7-8km stretch of the beach, which we had intended to walk along. But it was nearing sunset time, we were advised to not walk along the beach too far in the dark. We walked a little further ahead and then, sat in an empty boat lying on the beach. We saw the sun set from this boat and then headed back to the road.

We took a bus back to Malvan and roamed around the market area. There were the regular stores one sees in small market places, as well as shops selling "Konkani Meva"- Amba Poli, Phanas Poli, Prawns pickle et al. It was sad to see absolutely no mangoes in the market, though. The local people later told us, all the Alphonso either goes to Mumbai or is exported. It doesn't fetch too much money locally. 

Once the shops started closing, we took an autorickshaw back to Tarkarli. Had dinner at Visawa, out in the open. Regular home style food, with Solkadhi. Sat by the sea for a while, and headed back to the homestay.

The next morning, the auto guy came sharp on time, at 6.30AM to take us for the backwater ride. We were among the first ones to take off that morning, at around 7AM. He took us in the direction of the Sangam. En route we saw the Vitthal temple in Deobagh village, the MTDC house boat, Bhogve beach on the opposite side and then the Sangam point. Its a clear demarcation where the creek water meets the sea. You start seeing the waves, just suddenly !! It was beautiful, just sitting in the boat at that point. The air was cool and clean, it was absolutely quiet, and there was water all around. At a distance you see a light house on what is called the crocodile rock(because it looks like a crocodile).
From there we headed to what is referred to as the Tsunami Island. They say, after the 2004 tsunami, an island suddenly appeared at this point, hence the name. We were the first tourists there that morning. This is where you halt for breakfast and water sports. A couple from Deobagh has set up a food stall there. We had "ghavne"(something like neer dosa), the were hot, soft, thin and netty("luslushit" the word for it ) with coconut chutney and garlic chutney, followed by tea and coffee, and ended with...ukadiche modak !! Who would have ever imagined, you could eat ghavne and modak, on an isolated island !! It was certainly the most interesting breakfast I have ever had !!! After this we did the "bumper ride", kayaking, Chetan also did a jet ski ride. It was all fun and exciting. By then it had started to get very crowded, we decided to head back. On the way back, we saw some people collecting clams on another small island, but it was low tide, we couldn't take the boat there. Bu the time we reached the road, the autorickshaw guy was already waiting for us.

We went back to our homestay, packed our bags, said our goodbyes to the Karalkar family, and headed towards Malvan.

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Varada on

Sandeepa and Chetan,
Awesome place and nice pics. I love the way you describe and also the fact that you mingle with the locals for a more real experience of the place, culture and local cuisine.

One suggestion about the blog.
Make a separate paragraph about 'What you ate" for a foodie like me. also post pictures of local food speciality, if you get to eat it.

sandeepachetan on

Thanks so much Varada !! Food info and pictures is a wonderful suggestion. Will try to implement it.

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