Kulyab, Tajikistan: A Cloudy Start

Trip Start Jul 28, 2013
Trip End Feb 06, 2014

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Flag of Tajikistan  , Khatlon,
Thursday, November 7, 2013

On the road again. We met up with Ergash, our driver for the next week, outside the hotel at 8am. He came highly recommended through the Lonely Planet and Sam had been having chats with him over the past few weeks in relation to the trip we wanted to do over the Pamir Highway. As mentioned previously, the initial price started out at US$1300 but after meeting various people who had just finished the trip, we managed to talk him down to US$900 which includes his driving expertise to Osh and fuel.

The first part of the trip took us around Dushanbe looking for diesel and a missing nut. Numerous stops later all was found and we were on our way. Oh that was after Ergash asked Sam to move the car whilst he went in search of the nut. Thank god he didn't ask me.

With everything covered in low cloud it wasn't the most picturesque start to the journey and when we went over the pass at 2200m you could barely see pass the bumper. Thankfully, unlike most driver's we've encountered, Ergash seems a sensible lad with good road skills which is exactly what you want when driving along a cliff edge in fog.

Surviving the first section we stopped for lunch just passed Kulyab (Kulob) at some random little roadside cafe which stank of boiled meat. Not feeling overly hungry we opted to share and got out of there as quickly as possible. The next delight was the toilet which, ignoring the mud, urine and poo you had to tread on to get there, didn't smell too bad. A good scrap of the shoes was definitely a needs must before getting back in the car.
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