Machu Picchu
Trip Start
Apr 09, 2006
1
132
148
Trip End
Jun 09, 2007
Machu Picchu,
Cusco,
Peru
Friday, April 20, 2007
I originally booked a five-day trek upon arrival in Cusco that culminated in a spectacular dawn arrival in MP via the Inca Trail (the actual network of Incan "highways" consisted of more than 22,500km....much more than the 45km that is commonly hiked). Unfortunately, the travel agent a few of us chose turned out to be a swarthy sort so I backed out the night before. No worries. Instead I planned on visiting the great site on my own - without any tour group or guide, which is unusual. This decision led me on two local buses to catch the train to a small village only 8km from MP - Aguas Calientes.
I LOVED the journey itself and was very pleased to have selected an ass of a travel agent. I was again the only gringo on buses full of locals and riding the dusty roads. Again I was playing with children who giggled at my pasty white skin. I was to catch the train in Ollantaytambo, a place that I had already visited on my Sacred Valley tour. Ollantaytambo was the sole sight where the Inca prevailed against the Spanish during their invasion. They did so using a brilliant strategy that included flooding the narrow valley where the city was located, thus rendering the Spanish horses useless. My initial visit was on an organized tour, but this time I had a few hours to kill before my train was to depart. The small village is a gem and it was great to wander the ancient streets....each a great example of Inca-era city planning and architecture - huge stones making the base of each home wall rising to smaller and smaller stones. Even the network of ditches that bring fresh water into the town was impressive. Surrounded by the high mountains and away from the touts near the citadel remains, it was easy to fall back into history.
Enough was enough and I jumped on my train for Aguas Calientes. I arrived on the blackest of nights, quickly found a hostel, arranged for a box lunch the next day and hit the bed.
4:20AM came veeeery early, but the cook in my hostel was up as promised and already had my tea ready. Scrambled eggs, toast and ham were to top me off for the long day ahead. I headed off still in the dark and still without any visual aids to the town of Aguas Calientes. There were a number of others leaving for sunrise at MP; we banded together for the long hike up, up, up. The first hour or so was in complete darkness with only the sound of the Urubamba River pounding beside us, and then below us. As light slowly came (and when I was able to take my eyes off the next stair), I was surprised at how tropical the surroundings seemed. MP is lower in elevation than Cuzco, but still pretty high. Even so, the lush vegetation we were hiking through was dotted with bright flowers...hummingbirds fought with brilliant butterflies for the best of them. Frosty yellow and black bumblebees buzzed here and there.
Finally....the top. Finally...Machu Picchu. My initial thoughts were unusual. Not of the site in front of me but at the shear beauty of the location. Had the Incas not built this spectacle in this location, I have no doubt hundreds would come to this place for the dramatic scenery. The Urubamba River circles around the great Wayne Picchu (the mountain in the background of MP in all the famous photos) perhaps 300 degrees in the valley below. The river is easily heard all the way up here. On the other side of the river other mountains shoot into the sky...covered in green with huge sections of brown and grey limestone. Beyond these immediate mountains even higher specimens can be seen supporting glaciers. The Incas knew what they were doing.
The actual purpose or function of MP is still regularly debated among those who debate such things. The citadel, sitting at its lofty perch atop the Peruvian Andes, remained undiscovered by the invading Spaniards. Apart from a few indigenous Quechuas, no one knew of MPs existence until American historian Hiram Bingham stumbled across it in 1911. Despite extensive study and research, knowledge of the city remains sketchy at best.
Some believe the citadel was founded in the waning years of the Inca empire in an attempt to save Inca culture, while others say the it was already long forgotten when the Spaniards arrived. Still others describe the site as a country palace for the elite that was quickly abandoned as the invaders infiltrated the highest echelons of Inca leadership. Whatever the case, the exceptional quality of stonework and ornamentation tell the story of a vitally important ceremonial center.
After taking my fill of the site it was time for the 8km back to Aguas Calientes...this time down the steps. Upon arrival, I was treated to my first site of the city itself nestled among huge limestone mountains and the raging Urubamba. Touristy? Of course...but it's pretty good for a town that exists solely for tourism.
The funniest thing is the name of the city - Aguas Calientes translates to Hot Waters and indeed there are hot springs near the city that every resident tout tries to tell you about. I didn't go....but just learned that they are FAKE - heated by electricity. Too funny!
