Gettin' High and Stayin' High

Trip Start Apr 09, 2006
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Trip End Jun 09, 2007


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Friday, April 6, 2007

My high excursions continue as I arrive in La Paz, the highest capital city in the world.  Although the published height of the city is 3660m, that's only the average elevation.  The city lies in a kind of bowl with the downtown and main artery following the canyon near the bottom.  The actual elevation stretches from about 3000m to a lofty 4000m with buildings tumbling over the edge of the bowl.  Needless to say, the hills and elevation make for some breathless and heart-pounding walks for some.  I haven't really experienced any problems as the rise from Argentina was spread out over a few weeks.  The change in elevation means as much as a 10 degree (Celsius) temperature difference within the city.  Unlike most places, the higher you go the poorer you are - the wealthy have chosen places low in the valleys to ensure a more comfortable climate.

Although light on actual attractions, La Paz is chocked full of wonderful and colorful markets.  The city is full of inconsistencies - women wearing traditional dress and "bowler" hats sell fruit and hand-crocheted garments outside modern glass high rises.  I'm sorry to say I didn't get a single shot of one of these women.  I've always been reluctant to photograph locals and I never got a chance to sneak one in.  The Witches Market is full of every possible ingredient and concoction imaginable: dried herbs, piles of what looks like hair and even dried llama fetuses! Yikes!  Don't ask me what they're used for...I didn't stick around.

The main event around La Paz for most backpackers is the World's Most Dangerous Road.  For $65-$75USD, a tour company drives you about three hours outside of town, throws your ass on a mountain bike, and finally follows you down a paved/dirt road that plunges 3600m in elevation.  One side of the road is a sheer drop all the way to the bottom for the majority of the ride.  It's about 5 hours of bumpiness that I chose not to expose my fragile ass to.  I ran into Duncan and Amanda from the Uyuni tour here and they enjoyed it, but I just didn't feel like dropping the cash.  Something like 13 riders have died over the past 12 years by riding over the edge.  The stat really didn't concern me, but I won't be #14.

Instead I simply relaxed and took in the city - it's a good one.  I even caught a movie in English!  300 was just OK....the best part being the large numbers of muscled men wearing next to nothing running around fighting the Persians. 

Next stop: Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca from where I'll celebrate Easter with the freakishly Catholic locals.  Then again, I'm more likely to have a few drinks with the C&E'rs.
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