Lima...my thoughts

  Cusco, Peru
Saturday, January 31, 2009

About Lima.  What to say.  I didn't write much in Lima.  Finding words to describe uncomfortable discussions mixed with great highlights, was more or less unnerving.  Each day of smiles seemed to end with the lecturing of an over zealous, hypocritical, repetitive, obnoxious hostess.  Its hard to enjoy putting words on a page when not all of them will contain good news or inscribed experiences of my personal learning.  As I have said before Lima is a city of nine million inhabitants.  Opportunity for newness is ever present, but also difficult to find when everyone seems to be on the city's timetable and agenda.  That being said, what I did get to see was amazing.

The museums that I visited were amazing; Larco being the most extensive and informative.

Jesus with Cuy (Guinea Pig)

Peruvian history is wrought with war and an abundance of culture.  Each era brought advances in adaptation to new peoples brought into their melting pot.  Mixing these elements with the nonexistence of a writing system made their daily working and tools a venue for history.  Pottery and clay hold the secrets to their past.  Thread work and textiles depict and record important events and tell a beautiful story that to this day is still encrypted in their creative designs.  The gold and stonework worn by their highest authorities was more than ornamental, playing games with light and their revered sun.  Each corner you turn within the museums walls brought more desire within my heart to know the center of this country...Cusco.

Peru is also a place of mixed mentalities that make a country great.  Rather than pouring funds into education and often times their poor, they create amazing spectacles to be viewed and enjoyed with their eyes.  Lima is full of incredible parks.  El parque Kennedy, parque de las aguas, parque de exposition, and parque de las leyendas are a few that I had the opportunity to visit, all of which were created by brilliant minds.  Recent years have introduced a new objective to beautify the city by the Municipilidad de Lima.  The number of parks in Lima alone is so abundant that visiting all of them would be a task accomplished with a week.  The capital of Peru has over 25 districts with the majority holding the neighborhood rights to its own place of magnificence.  Each addition to a new zone provides a communal identity behind the wondrous and unique architecture.  Personally I would rather see funds restructured into different places, but it is what it is. 

Of all that I saw amongst the park, I have to say that the Parque de Aguas was my favorite.  I had the opportunity to spend the evening with a bright young med. student.  Melissa and I spent the day in one of the more touristed spots, Barranco, in anticipation for the lights of the water park.  At about 7:30 we ventured out to the gates of the huge section of the city dedicated to fountains and colors.  The park had in total more than 20 fountains.

Fountain with arches

Each unique in its attempt to provide some candy for the eyes.  In the center was a giant fountain surrounded by gargoyles spitting water form their various parts.  The backdrop for this spectacle was a rose laden roman-esk edifice with arched terraces leading to it's center.  Walking around the park you find yourself surrounded by drenched young people who found the playful walk-through fountains that throw water from the ground.  Smiles in the park were more than common, everyone was wearing one. 

Barranco also holds a place in my heart.  The neighborhood sits just to the south of Miraflores.  It has a more bohemian feel to it.  I was able to have a pure white Peruvian style bracelet woven for me by one of the street vendors.  I can't wait to watch the color change with sweat and dirt.  An old church in Barranco is also the home of my favorite restaurant in Lima.  You can view the sunset perfectly from their balcony.

Nearing sunset baranco

Their ceviche is amazing and a mere six dollars...oh so tasty.  Combine this with some whiskey on the rocks or a pisco sour and comfort is the only word that comes to mind.  The neighborhood is also the home to a few music venues and a vibrant nightlife.  La Noche host a free jazz night every Monday.  The music is hit and miss but the venue is more than worth the hour walk or dollar taxi ride.  Local photography and art line a couple of the walls to be viewed between sets.  I love the balcony more than anything, it horseshoes the stage with perfect views from every angle. 
Sweet tooths is a description that most definitely can be used to describe the inhabitants of Lima.  I will never forget the broken kazoo whistle carried by each of the numerous street vendors.  At times you can find five or six of the mobile carts powered by the pedals of a bicycle.  Their unique call was more annoying than the constant honking of cars.  Once and a while you can hear an over excited man fill his lungs to release the sound of a dying goose for a full 20 seconds.  The only words that come to mind are "Please stop".  Definitely try creama volteada or tres leches if you find yourself in a ice cream shop. 

More often that not my mornings began at a coffee shop three blocks from my brief home.  Casey the owner is a Seattleite with a beautiful Peruvian wife, Tatiana.  More than one conversation was held with Cafe Verde's morning barista, Harrison, over the classic music of Led Zeppelin and an Americano.  Their place was always a cool break from the 99% humidity and high temperatures.  I had the opportunity to take a coffee lesson mixed with tasting from Casey.  His love for Seattle's cultured drink is contagious.  He shared more history and knowledge in an hour and a half than I thought possible.  It's nice to have a survey of context to my addiction to the dark drink.  Casey is one of a few organic distributors to Cafe Vita in Seattle.  I bet you didn't know that there is a coffee bean that sells unroasted for over 500 dollars a pound...Geisha from Panama.  It scores a 99 on the coffee tasting scale.  Almost perfect.  Casey's business is an admirable one.  He provides an education and opportunity to local coffee growers, enabling them to better their personal businesses.

Lima is growing at exponential rates.  Peru, without too much external need will suffer much less that other countries in this economic struggle of the developed world.  My hope is that the capital can recognize a greater benefit for support in things for the educational sector.  Young people are their future.  Educating them is more important than massive gardens and beautiful water parks. 

Overall my thoughts of Lima provide a background and desire to return.  I did not get the opportunity to para-glide or see too many of the white sand southern beaches.  My future holds a reservation in the city with many friends to share more experiences.