My Own Camino
Trip Start
Jun 27, 2008
1
4
6
Trip End
Aug 31, 2008
Oviedo,
Asturias,
Spain and Canary Islands
Sunday, August 3, 2008
It was an interesting day; I watched a street performer drill a spoon through his nose, had a horrible panic convinced that my wallet had been stolen (possibly by that same trickster, I thought..) though it was in a pocket in my bag all along, stumbled across a free exhibition of one of my favourite artists... though mostly I spent the day deciding what to do with myself over the next few. My vague plan had been to do a section of the 'Camino de Santiago' though after much to-ing and fro-ing between the Catherdral, the Pilgrimm´s Albergue, the tourist office and internet cafes, I decided that with the little time and information that I had coupled with the walkable-with-but-still-bloody-heavy nature of my rucksack that it probably wasn´t the best idea.
My cousin had told me of a little 'feve' trainline (separate to the main Spanish operator) which runs across the north coast so I decided to take the Santander to Oviedo line and stop off to stay in towns along the way. The track curves along the coastline with sweeping mountain-ranges to one side and vast open sea to the other. The towns that I stopped off at (I ended up staying in two, both for two nights) were both along the way of the camino and were set between this dynamic combination of mountains and ocean.
The first was called 'Llanes', a pretty little town with alcove beaches and a lot of character. The pier jutting out between the bays is lined with huge, brightly painted concrete blocks - a permentant art peice called 'Cubos de la Memoria'. They look like the toys of the BFG´s baby washed up and scattered on the shore - giving the place quite a unique feel.
I spent the day exploring where I´d found myself; wandering through the old town, finding viewpoints, swimming in the sea.. I also scouted out a sports shop and bought a tent for, though I´d found a hostel for that night, it happened to be situated right beside a campsite which put the idea in my head and I thought camping would be more of an experience (as well as being a fair bit cheaper..).
The following morning then, I checked out of the hostel and went as far as next door to pitch my new acquisitioin. I decided to spend that day doing a small section of the Camino and set off for the neighbouring village which, amusingly, was called 'Poo'. I got a bit lost on my search for Poo but found it eventually - a quaint little place complete with a 'Playa de Poo' where I spent my afternoon.
I packed up early the next morning and headed for the trainstation where I´d arrived two days before. Washed with that satisfying feeling that comes with remembering the first steps into a place, the first street and buildings that you see when you know of nothing in relation to anything else to the moment of leaving when it us suddenly all linked together and now a part of you and your memories.
At Llanes station I met an amiable Italian man called Luigi who was on the trail to Santiago but was in need of a bit of a cheat day - getting the train to the town where I was headed and walking to the next Albergue (pilgrim´s hostel) from there. I spent most of the morning with him; arriving in 'Ribadesella', looking for the (again, indespensible) tourist office, waiting for it to open, searching for my campsite and finding the continuation of his Camino. After we´d parted ways, I spent another day exploring a new and also very beautiful and atmospheric town. I walked up to a little church on a hill and ate my habitual dinner of bread, cheese and olives as I gazed down into the valley where the little town was nestled. That evening a band was playing in the street by the harbour and it was enjoyed in that wonderful continental way - not starting till half 10-11, just as people are finishing dinner, and all from the youngest kids to the oldest grandparents dance into the small hours.
Ribadesella is known for two things - being the finishing point for the annual grand canoeing race down the Sella River (which I missed by a week though did see the ceremony for the 'mini-sella' - kids - competition) and also for the fact that it was here in the 60´s that some potholers discovered a set of prehistoric paintings hidden in a cave, unseen for thousands of years.
They´ve made some of them accessable so I went to the 'Cuevo de Tito Bustillo' to see these discoveries. By the torch light of our guide I could see fairly detailed and still amazingly vivid black, violet and red images of horses and deer decorating these stone walls deep below ground. It was quite surreal to see such familiar shapes painted by human hands such an incomprehensible amount of time ago and incredible to imagine whoever may have formed the strokes before me.
After a couple of days enjoying this interesting wee town, it was Sunday and time for me to finish the train ride to Oviedo and catch a bus to La Coruña where I would meet the family with whom I am now staying...
I´d never travelled by myself or without any sort of plan quite like that before, its an unusual feeling to have this time completely at your own disposal. Unusual though refreshing to have the freedom for a few days to just see where the wind takes you.
Comments
lucky you
Seem to have read the last two entries in the wrong order! Love the sound of your wanderings. Feeling so envious of that freedom to go where you will. Twinges of concern about you being on your own but you obviously coped perfectly and have had the best kind of experience. Take care and write again soon.
X J