The Bay of Islands
Trip Start
Sep 07, 2003
1
5
28
Trip End
Sep 07, 2004
Russell,
New Zealand
Thursday, November 27, 2003
It was great to be out of Auckland and travelling free again, even if it is only for 2 days at the moment. It felt just like our travelling days back in Oz except this time the van is bigger and snazzier.
On arrival at the Bay of Islands, we decided to take the 5 minute car ferry across to the "historic" village of Russell - a decision based on Russell campsite's proximity to several pubs which we needed for viewing of the Rugby World Cup Final that evening. Russell is NZ's oldest European settlement - a place where whalers, escaped Aussie convicts and other "vagabonds" gathered, earning it the nickname "Hellhole of the Pacific" back in the 1830s
1 The Bay of Islands
. Nowadays, it's a gorgeous little low-key seaside resort.We checked in at the campsite amongst the row of Maui and Britz vans - proud of our home-made van, which we thought looked just as luxurious as all these hired camperhomes.
As the weather was so beautiful, we booked on to a boat cruise round the Bay that afternoon. Our 4 hour trip took us around the pretty islands, followed a pod of dolphins and then sped us out into the open sea to attempt the sail-through of the "Hole in the Rock". Compared with the up-til-now serene cruise through the sheltered bay, the 20 minute trip out on the open sea to the Rock was rough! Marcus and I sat outside on the bow deck clinging on tight as our catamaran bounced up and down over the choppy waves. It was rough enough for the skipper almost to abandon the sail-through attempt, but after 3 practice approaches (hamming it up a bit to create maximum excitement maybe?!) we slipped through the large cavernous hole eroded through the island. On the way back to Russell we stopped off for an hour at Urupukapuka Island (try saying that after a few pints!), where we took a walk up the hill for a magnificent view over the Bay of Islands and the turquoise sea shimmering in the sun.
Saturday evening passed in a Russell pub in a blur of beer, as we watched England beat Australia in the Rugby World Cup Final - the first time I've really wished I could be back in London, since we left 14 months ago. Bet the celebrations back home were mental!
On Sunday we took the car ferry back across the Bay to Paihia and Waitangi and visited the Reserve where the famous Treaty of Waitangi was signed back in 1840 between Maori chiefs and white settlers
2 Russell Beach
. Considering this is the most significant historical site in modern European Kiwi history, it wasn't very exciting. There was a large Maori "waka" (war canoe), constructed in 1940 to mark the Treaty's centenary. It was impressively huge and beautifully carved, and a nearby Kauri Tree stump illustrated the size of the logs from which these massive canoes were made.Across the lawn where the Treaty was signed, lay the "Treaty House" - the mostly reconstructed residence of James Busby, the British Government Resident who was sent to sort out the vagabonds causing trouble in Russell. Not very exciting! Much better was "Te Whare Runanga" - a traditional Maori Meeting House opened during the Centenary Celebrations in 1940. Beautiful carvings inside depict ancestors from many tribes, and the major tribal art styles are represented in reed wall panels and painted rafter patterns. Before leaving we watched a film outlining the events surrounding the Treaty signing. Interesting that only a very brief mention was made of the many Maori grievances currently being heard in court over lost land following misinterpretation of the Treaty.
And so, it was time to head back to Auckland - wish we could just keep on going, but we have another 12 weeks worth of money still to earn, before out proper Kiwi travels begin. 84 days and counting........!
