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On The Pinnacle
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Onwards and upwards with the continuation of our educational half of the tour meant a stop at Bartelomé, an extinct volcano sporting more than its fair share of volcanic formations.
A surprise welcoming committee in the form of two White Tipped Reef Sharks lay in waiting seemingly trapped in a small cave by the low tide as we stepped onto the jetty. After dragging my eyes away from this spectacle my gaze was drawn towards the 1400m peak looming, now silent above us. The wooden walkway snaked up into the distance as we began our mornings exercise and following the first viewpoint some 300 steps were all that separated our group from the summit. The struggle upwards in the already blistering heat took us though a moonscape of lava rock, lava tubes and disintegrating tuff (a type of rock produced when volcanic ash comes together, kind of has the consistency of sandstone but very light and crumbles between your fingers into dust) leaving behind a covering of fine sand over the island. One of the only plants to survive in such parched conditions is the lava cactus which can be in selected positions throughout Bartelomé.
On reaching the top we were given spectacular panoramic views across the island, the nearby Santiago (San Salvador) and in the distance Sombrero Chino. After pausing to take some guide book shots of the Pinnacle rock (Fabian explained that this large black partially eroded cone was created when lava reached the sea and on contact with seawater caused Phreatic explosions. The exploded molten fragments fused together forming a welded tuff - thanks WIKI!) and the two beaches either side of this isle and viewed the sunken crater in the bay holding the jetty. Back at sea level we used the white sand beaches as an excuse for some R and R where I had a crocodile hunter moment when stepping on a baby stingray on my way out to snorkel around the pinnacle. An extremely inquisitive penguin came to investigate why all the people were invading its territory and was more than happy to float carefully eyeballing the gringos what must have been inches away.
During our visit Nery (the Boaty) had been busy buying fresh fish and as we left the bay a convoy of hungry Frigate birds joined the party. They jostled and squawked barging each other for the prime position as he gutted the catch on the stern of the Yolita. so desperate they were for a free meal it was possible to hold the guts aloft so they would swoop down to take them clean out of your hand. Kenji (the crazy Jap) got nipped by one of the hooked beaks which, serves him right for teasing them! Frigate birds are the pirates of the Galapagos as, unable to catch their own food due to sheer size and lack of waterproof feathers they must scavenge for scraps and have even been known to grab smaller seafaring birds in midair by the tails and shake vigorously to disgorge their catches. The hooked beaks serve to obtain dropped bounties from the surface of the sea following a successful bit of skulduggery.
The afternoon took us for a second visit to Santa Cruz the location this time was Black Turtle Cove, where we would have a dinghy ride through the red mangroves. Despite the militancy with which the local Mossy population attacked us, the bombardment was made bearable by the teams of baby Black Finned Sharks, respectful numbers of Green Sea Turtles hiding in the murky waters beneath us and a Great Blue Heron resting on a rock. For my Last night the crew hosted a mini fiesta on the ships roof, provided Capriniña Cocktails (made from Cane Liquor, sugar and lime) and treated us to some quality salsa dancing (Nery was a man on fire!) until the wee hours. More thumbnails ...
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Mar 15, 2007 02:35 EST by myriam
Hi Steve,
absolutely amazing photos can't wait kids to come back from school to show it to them.
And also to see you are well and kicking.
lots of love Myriam and Co...
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