Saddle Up

The isle of Santa Cruz is one of the few populated islands in Galapagos and home to the Darwind Research Centre. The centre located in the lowlands, breeds both Giant Galapagos tortoises (The areas name derives from galapago or saddle after the shells of the saddle back galapagos tortoises) and Iguanas for release back into the wild in order to prevent more precious species becoming extinct.

01 Darwins Center

There are only 11 species of the original 14 giant tortoises found today mainly due to their ability to survive for many months without food or water, an attribute recognised by mariners who carried these passive vegetarians aboard vessels as a source of fresh meat on their long voyages. The fate of baby tortoises and iguanas was left in the hands of other factors including the introduction of non-endemic species introduced by humans who, screwed up the delicate ecosystems on many islands. Rats eats both young tortoises and iguanas and goats and donkeys consume any vegetation in their path, making it increasingly difficult for the giants to find food. There are many conservation projects underway attempting to eradicate these unwanted intruders but as you can imagine the task is not a small one.

02 GNP

The centre has both males and females in captivity as examples to show the public but all the younger BFG´s are released onto their corresponding Islands when they are big enough to avoid predation. The centre is also home to Lonesome George a 150 year old Giant Saddleback Tortoise and the sole remaining survior of his species. Despite Many atempts to get George to breed he has not yielded to date and a $10000 reward awaits anyone able to find him a mate and save the species. No one exactly knows why he hasn´t bred and there are a whole collection of theories from the probabilty that he was so young when his parents left or mor likely were taken that he doesn´t know how to and the possibility that there is no competion for him so he just isn´t bothered.

03 Baby G.E Darwini (Santiago)

Walking through town towards the dock while my companions begun the arduous bus journey to Baltra airport, I stumbled on the local fishman bartering with local Galapaqueno´s over the fresh catch. A group of pelicans were camped out dangerously close to the stock waiting to fight for the scraps thrown on the floor. After musing at some Pelican Fight Club I returned to ship to greet the new arrivals.

One of these new arrivals was obviously not thinking happy thoughts and had brung the rain all the way from the mainland to join us here. We got 5 mins inland en route to a private farm in the highlands for a wild tortoise hunt and the heavens opened. The private farm borders the GNP (Galap National Park) and as Giant Tortoises have no concept of boundaries are often spotted munching vegetation on the farmers land. Yet again totally unprepared for the downpour we donned black plastic bags(which were of no use at all!) and squelched into the bush. The fine specimens we captured were huge and extremely wild, proved by the swift contraction deep into their shells and hissing that accompanied this action when someone stepped inside personal space. When given room these magnificent creatures did what they obviously do best and lumbered shakily about devouring the lush greenery.

04 Baby G.E Hoodensis (Española)

A few hundred meters from entrance to the farm (which is actually now not a farm at all as the owner makes more off tourism than he ever did growing fruit)

Back in town hunger struck so Fabian kindly introduced me to a few of the local delacacies in the form of Empanades de Queso (sort of sweet, deepfried batter pasty filled with cheese), Morocho (a warm, maizy, milky, cinnamony drink) and the piece de resistance; Tripa Mishqui (or bbq cow intestines!). Obviously not wanting to be rude especially after Fabian stated that this was his fav chow, I tried all and while the chewy tripa wasn´t as bad as it sounds( I knew I was gonna get the trots) the rest was utterly delicioso.

05 Baby G.E Porteri (Santa Cruz)

06 Lonesome George's Backside

07 Lava Lizzy

08 The Ladies

09 A Loving Female

10 The Big Boys

11 Standing To Attention

12 Candelabra N Prickly Pear

13 Mature Pelican

14 Noddy Tern

15 Juvenile Pelican

16 Step Away From The Shell

17 Chow Time

18 Fashion Victim

20 Tunnel Mkii

21 Get Down And Gimme 20

22 One For The Guide Book