Days 10-11: Dogs, Bicycles and Crabs By Erin Socks

  São Caetano de Odivelas, Brazil
Sunday, December 9, 2007

Saturday morning Carolyn's Uncle Fred picked us up and we drove just over an hour to Santa Rosa.  Fred's wife Aninha is completing her Masters in Tourism at WMU and needed us to help do some surveys at this specific resort.  Unfortunately there were not many guest staying there this weekend so Carolyn and Fred tried to do interviews but we only had 1 and they were told to come back at a later time. 

Since this was basically a "1 horse town" we contined onto Sao Caetano de Odivelas to sample the loacl cusine for lunch.  Turns out they had a crabfest going on and we had a feast.  We paid what would be US$5 for 6 crabs!  Talk about a bargain.  The restaurant we had lunch at had a view of the water where the river meets the ocean.

Where the river meets the ocean

They decided they would need to try and do more interviews the next day too so we decided to find a hotel.  There was not much of a selection...seeing how this was a fishing town of about 1,000 people.and 1,000 stray dogs.  (Dogs hang out on every corner, especially in front of the butcher shops and they like to wander across the road all the time.  I think on our way their we had to brake for 5 dogs.) 

Dogs chilling (can you find all 3?)

So, anyway....we needed a room so Fred bargained down the lady from R$75 to R$65.  It was an interesting establishment....our room had no tv...a shower with a trash can full of water in it and interesting wall decor you could say.  They only had 1 bed but luckly Fred packed his hammock to hang on the wall hooks which is normal.

Pop Bottle Pluggling Light Fixture?

Where's my box spring?

Mystery hole number 1 of 2

Giant red water bucket

View from hotel room 2

Rain rain go away

Later that night Carolyn and Fred went back to Santa Rosa to do more interviews while I took a long nap.  When they returned we had dinner, ice cream and attempted to check out the town.  

Fruit stand and stray dogs

The town was filled with small open air bars blaring music but with only a handfull of people at each.  Although the crabfestival was going on in town I seemed to be the main attraction judging by all the stares!  We drove around which is rare enough since most of the locals ride bikes or motorcycles.   With the window rolled down people always stare and since i was the "white"girl they did even more.  (In this town...and almost everywhere in Brazil people ride motor and pedal bikes.  In this town they typically ride 2+ and I have even seen up to 4 people packed on a motercycle and people holding babies!  Not the norm in the USA for sure!)

The next day, we got up bright and early to do some more interviews in Santa Rosa, but before leaving, we wanted to take showers.  I was the first one up, and I finally found out what that trash can full of water was for.  I turned on the shower and had about 5 seconds of water, and then the water shut off.  I attempted to turn the water off and on again a few times, but no success.  The giant trash can of water stared at me and I stared right back.  I didn't want to do it as some dirt had settled to the bottom, but I needed to wash my hair.  I noticed a dog bowl in the corner, which I assumed was to dip the water and pour it onto myself.  I scooped some up, and trying not to drip any water on my face, I washed my hair and got the hell out of there.

Can you see the floaties?

From our hotel balcony, freshly "bucketed"

Looking out over the town

After the stop in Santa Rosa, we decided to check out a historical town near by, called Vigía de Nazaré.  We went shopping at a fish market right on the river and checked out the local shops, all of which sell board shorts, bikinis, and other beach clothes.  

Filleting our fish at the market

Fishing boats

Coming in with today's catch

We didn't have trouble finding a parking spot because there are no damn cars.  The streets are jam packed with bicycles and people peddling fruits and fish.  

Street scene in Vigia de Nazare

We checked out some 18th century churches, then stopped at a small store for a sip of Guarana (once again, my favorite carbonated beverage) to cool off. 

18th Century church Igreja das Pedras

Sunday morning packed church (Igreja Matrix)

We hit the road back to Belem, only slowing down for the stray dogs and lombadas (giant speed bumps all over Brazil to slow cars down).  It was so hot, we were thinking about stopping for a swim where the locals go on a small inlet to the river.  As we pulled off the road, we saw 7 buses and lots more bikes.  There were so many people, being that it was Sunday, and they were enjoying the murky brown lazy river on giant oversized inner tubes and sipping beer at the open air bars.  I guess it was kind of like a po' man's natural water park.  I've never seen anything like it and I wish I had taken photos.

Am I tan yet?