Bearfoot Landing to Charleston
Trip Start
Jul 21, 2001
1
30
45
Trip End
Apr 22, 2002
Charleston,
South Carolina,
United States
Saturday, November 10, 2001
We were down to three boats cruising together and once again, we were the first boats to leave Bearfoot Landing in the early morning. We were quite proud of our early start until we came to mile 356.4 where at 6:30 am a gondola with golfers passed 65 feet over our heads as they were taken from one fairway to the next across the ICW. What a golf course!!!
By noon, the colder north wind still hadn't warmed us up and for the first time in days we kept sweaters on as once again we fought the tide, but were aided by the wind for the entire day. Much of today's run was spent going down the Waccamaw River. It is quite lovely with swamps, marshes, endless deep creeks and dense forests. On both banks are abandoned rice fields with now unused canals overhung by live oaks draped with long strands of Spanish moss. It was very different from anything we had cruised through before. Late in the afternoon we anchored off the main channel in Georgetown (mile 402.5)
Nov. 6
A different type of scenery again. Today we entered an area of marshes and creeks.At times all you could see for miles were reeds. Far in the distance, a stand of trees or sometimes only a lone tree would emerge like a mirage from the sea of grass.
As we crossed into South Carolina we saw more and more wild palm trees. After all this is the Palmetto state. Most of the palms were saw were cabbage (sabal) palmettos.
Finally at 4 p.m. we anchored off Charleston in the Ashley River (mile 469.5). We will soon split up as Acclaim has to be in the Bahamas by Dec. 9 and Nicou is going to be left for two weeks in Charleston as Dave and Judy fly back to Maine for business and family commitments. In the evening, it was our turn to host again and Dave brought a bottle of champagne to toast our safe arrival and the friendship which our three boats have shared these past weeks since our first meeting at the Visitor Center Dock in the Dismal Swamp (mile 28.0).
"Charleston vies for the title of America's most beautiful city" is a statement contained in a number of brochures. The reason for Charleston's beauty appears to be a case of benefitting from poverty.
After the Civil War, Charleston lapsed into a long depression "which proved to be a hidden boon for the city. While other communities were busy tearing down their historic buildings and widening their streets, Charleston was forced by lack of capital to make do with what it had. In the 1950s and 60s, Charlestonians awoke to the unique opportunity afforded by a city that still retained its historic character, and renovation projects began on a wide scale." (Cruising Guide to Coastal South Carolina and Georgia by Claiborne S. Young).
We signed up for a supposed tour of one of the inns which had recently been renovated and restored to its past beauty. We knew it was just a catch to have us commit to a ninety minute "timeshare" presentation but they promised us $75 and a $25 coupon as a credit at one of the local tourist attractions. At 9:30 a.m. along with David and Judy, arriving separately, we met at the Inn. While we were waiting for the presentation to start, the young man in charge took us on a little tour and showed us the oldest road in Charleston, right beside the inn.
The stones in the lane way came over as ballast in a ship in the late 1600's and were used to pave the main street of the Huguenot settlement leading to the waterfront.
Although there certainly was pressure to purchase a timeshare, it wasn't unreasonable and after 90minutes of salesmanship we politely insisted that it wasn't for us. We wondered if we really would receive the promised rewards but both couples soon had cheques for $75 and gift certificates for a horse drawn carriage ride through the city. Cashing the cheques, ASAP, we merrily went to find lunch in the most authentic old south' restaurant' we could find. A number of the local business people recommended Joseph's (129 Meeting Street) in the heart of the old market district.
We were led to a back patio and there in a garden of flowers and palms Margaret, Dave and Judy enjoyed a scrumptious meal of fried oysters and creole grilled shrimp, while I devoured roast beef sauteed with roasted red and green southern peppers, onions, and Provolone cheese wrapped in a sun dried tomato tortilla. What a lunch!!!
Since we were in fine shape to just sit back and be entertained, we left to find the Old South Carriage Company. There are several carriage companies in the downtown area and I supposed all are very good. We certainly received an excellent tour from this company and anyone visiting Charleston should make time to hear their presentation.
We were told that Charleston was founded in 1670 by the British and Charles Towne soon received a band of French Huguenots (French Protestants) who imparted the Creole flavor that still colours the area. There is a Building Authority for Charleston. If you own any historic home and wish to paint it you must choose from one of the approved' pastel colours.
As we passed these pastel houses, we would have glimpses of tidy brick-walled gardens behind lacy iron gates. Each house was unique but they all blended into a view of a past preserved for us today.
Unique to Charleston are the number of "Single Houses". These homes consist of a house two or three stories high, one room wide and several rooms deep with the narrow end facing the street. On one side are one or two story verandas designed "to catch the sea breezes". A door opens onto the street which leads to the veranda (not directly into the house) and on this is the main entrance to the home.
Charleston is also called the Holy City as from almost any street one can see a church steeple. There are no skyscrapers in Charleston and the highest buildings are the many church spires.
wasn't able to get a picture of an example of the unique fire insurance they carried in the 1800's. On a number of houses was a small bronze plaque. Each one we saw had a different icon; one looked like a beer stein but was supposed to represent a water barrel and hose. In those days, there were a dozen Fire and Hose Companies and you would pay one of the companies to protect your home. If there was a fire, apparently all the fire companies would take off for the scene but only the company whose plaque was on the house would fight the fire. The rest would refuse to help out, simply watched for awhile and then returned back to their headquarters. Sounded like something out of the Sopranos - paying for protection but calling it insurance. Apparently as a result of this very inefficient method of fighting fires, Charleston lost more homes than any other city of its size.
The tour was over all too quickly and we sadly said goodbye to Dave and Judy who were flying off to their home in Maine for two weeks. John and Alida had left in the morning, as they had a commitment to meet family in the Bahamas in early December, leaving us once again solo travelers on our cruise southward. It had been a superb time for the past two and a half weeks but that is the way of waterway travel. We are all hoping we will meet again somewhere in the Bahamas but if not we have truly gained from our time with each other.
