Marmalade sandwiches, anyone?

Trip Start Jul 12, 2012
Trip End Jun 21, 2013

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Where I stayed
Barranco Backpacker's Inn

Flag of Peru  ,
Friday, July 13, 2012

Here in Deepest Darkest Lima, it's true that they eat marmalade sandwiches - or rather, mountains of bread rolls with mermelada (which is Spanish for 'jam'). Which is all very well if you’re a Peruvian or a bear, but can be a little tiring on the stomach for anyone else. If you ask nicely, however, you can usually get some delicious ceviche, which is white fish marinated in lime juice, the national dish. 

But enough about food. Let's talk about me! Arriving in Lima at the start of my year-long sabbatical in South America was a bit of a culture shock. I thought London was big and smelly enough, but it's not a patch on Lima. Much of the city is a network of 8-lane highways. Consequently, the pollution is eye-watering. I stayed for 2 nights in Barranco, a district to the south of the city, which is relatively sleepy (ie. still manic). It has plenty of cafes and bars, including Starbucks, which I confess I was delighted to find. Intrepid traveller, me? Little did I know then that my cappucino alto would be the last decent coffee I'd have for some time (I never thought I'd say that about Starbucks coffee). 

Lima has some redeeming features, in particular the Malecon (seafront), which looked stunning at sunset when paragliders were floating along the cliff edge. My new friend, a local woman called Jennyfer who I met on the flight from Madrid, showed me the sights on my first day. She took me under her wing from the start: waiting with me while my rucksack took forever to appear on the baggage reclaim, making sure that Customs gave me the right visa, then driving all the way over from the other side of town to take me to the British Embassy. She had dragged her friend and daughter along for the ride. The friend was a taxi driver from the country who hated the city traffic and kept getting lost. So we soon gave up on the Embassy idea and went on a driving tour of Lima’s lovelier areas instead.

After two days in the big city, I was desperate for air so hopped on a bus out of town to my next stop, Paracas…
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Heather Wilkinson on

Sitting here with Jill having a look at your travel blog. Keep it up - its really interesting and will definitely be following your trip with envy.

Anna on

Hi Ros, please keep it up I am living vicariously through you right now ;)

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