Week 16 - Fortuna (Costa Rica)
Trip Start
Aug 01, 2007
1
27
69
Trip End
Dec 19, 2008
La Fortuna,
Costa Rica
Friday, November 23, 2007
Nov 16th - Finca Magdalena (Volcan Madera, Ometepe Island)
Early wake up today as it was Volcano hike day. At 6.30am had a hearty omellete and toast breakfast ($2) and then met the guide for todays hike ($15 for the day). There was a group of 3 of us going; Swedish guy, German girl and me.
The walk started out fairly easy passing coffee, bean and cocoa plantations (as well as the odd Howler monkey screaming at us). Then the route become harder and harder with slippery rocks and muddy patches everywhere and a very narrow pathway going through tropical forest. Everyone was slipping and sliding everywhere (really tough sweat inducing climbing).
After reaching the 2 km mark the landscape started changing to tropical cloud forest with short trees, colourful flowers and a permanent mist everywhere
Volcan Merida 1
. The hike became steeper and steeper at this point and it was now that we realised the German girl didn't have proper walking shoes but just flat sneakers. She had a really hard time slipping dangerously on the rocks (there are regular cases of broken bones on this slippery trail) and on a few occasions fell on her back nearly cracking her head on rocks.After we reached the 4km mark (1 km short of the summit) we all voted to go back down (the girls safety was more important than a hike). Our guide Freddie had stressed that the return hike was even more dangerous due to the steepness and descent speed so the further we went up the more dangerous it was for the girl coming down. Visability was pretty bad aswell so we wouldn't have seen anything at the top anyway.
A pretty disappointed group then made the treacherous walk down (silly girl..imagine wearing sneakers for a tough hike). It really was tough going down with the slippery rocks not providing any foot support and the Howler and White faced monkeys laughing at us all the way.
The hike was really beautiful anyway so in all it was worth it. Aswell as the monkeys I saw some Armadillo's, loads of colourful and noisy birds, and 3 different types of lizards
Volcan Merida 2
. Also the plants and flowers were really beautiful.Reaching the haven of the hotel at the bottom totally exhausted a round of well deserved beers and cokes were ordered. My legs were covered in volcanic mud up to my knees and most of my kit was splattered with mud and insects. After a swift cleanup operation I crashed in a hammock and slept.
Woke up late at night and just had time to get some dinner and a few beers in. Chatted to a Swedish couple (Matheus and Christina) for most of the night and then crashed out.
Nov 17th - Finca Magdalena to Merida
Could barely get mysellf out of bed due to exhausted legs (they were suffering big time) but hauled myself to the breakfast area for some much needed nourishment.
After a quiet walk around the beautiful gardens here in between breakfast and lunch it was time to bid a sad farewell to this lovely spot. So at 1pm I set off for the 1 km walk down to the main road in these parts (I use the word road very loosely because all it is really is a flat line of dirt). The chicken bus to Santa Cruz finally arrived at 2.30 (only 30 minutes late so pretty good) and after a 1 hour bumpy ride listening to some classic and new smoochy Latino pop (usually a female vocalist singing about the rascals that are their fella's) I arrived in the 5 house village of Santa Cruz.
Had to wait another 30 minutes but then got on another packed bus (funny enough they played exactly the same tunes) to Merida
Volcan Merida 3
. After a swift look around this small village I realised there wasn't much in the way of budget accomodation (there was a small restaurant that had 2 rooms at $3 a night but it was full) so I booked into a place called the Hacienda Merida. Really nice location on the lake with hammocks, restaurant and wooden buildings. The place was abit pricey but me and the Swedes got a small discount to share a room for $6 each.Arrived at sunset so enjoyed a well deserved litre bottle of beer (a hefty $2) and watched the sun go down over the lake from a small jetty (heaven). Had a long chat with Matheus (a Swedish government water engineer who was also heavily into Roleplaying games when he was younger..bit like myself) over a few beers. After checking the extortionate prices at the hotel for dinner it was decided to venture out into the village where I found the only other restaurant which had food for literally half the price (have noticed that all tourist places charge a 15% tax on everything).
Turns out Christina is a 3rd Dan in Ju Jitsu and Matheus is a brown belt so for most of the night we chatted about martial arts (it was inconclusibly voted that a Ju Jitsu black belt would beat a Kickboxing blackbelt...hmmmm). Both are well fascinated with my travelling small and light option and are always asking me what I have in my pack (even down to the medical kit)
Volcan Merida 4
.Nov 18th - Merida (Lake Nicaragua)
Woke up quite early today as I was heading off for some hiking (with Matheus and Christina), to what was supposedly a short 1.5 hour hike to the San Ramon waterfall. So after a proper hikers breakfast of porridge and fruit (damned pricey at $2.50...but damned tasty too) and armed with 1.5 litres of water, my camera and swimming stuff (very optimistic there) I headed off at 10am.
1 hour of walking along the main dusty road with numerous little Nicaraguan scamps begging for a dollar and then pretending to cry (I nearly pulled an oscar out of my bag) I reached the start of the hike which was the Biological research centre. Quite a fancy complex of new buildings.
Realising it would be at least 2 hours until I get some lunch in me I had a bite there..a bit pricey but tasty. Then started the slow ascent of the south-west slopes of Volcano Maderas. The first 1 km was fairly easy going on a wide path but then it got steeper and steeper and more rocky. Then after the 3 km mark and 2 hours later I started to wonder why I hadn't reached the waterfall yet
Volcan Merida 5
. The path now went through dry forest (very beautiful and saw loads of lizards and heard some Howler monkeys) and then I met some other hikers who told me there had been a landslide a week earlier so the falls were harder to get to.Not disconcerted at all I carried on and ploughed through the rubble of the landslide (covering what used to be a river) and finally after 3 hours reached the waterfall. It was lovely but not as spectacular as I expected. It was very high but only enough water for a quick cold shower.
After watching the waterfall and surroundings for a while I realised it was 4pm and only about 1 hour left of daylight so as quick as a ferret on speed I clambered back through the rubble and back down the side of the volcano in record time. On the way back down I met an unfortunate American who'd forgotten his camera by the falls and was actually running up the volcano to get there before dark.
Arrived at the main road exhausted and on my last drop of water..so my prayers were answered when the last bus of the day streaked passed and I managed to stop it. The bus was full of local chicks all dressed up and heading to Altagracia for some boogying and yet I still fell asleep (shame on me with a capital Shay) and nearly missed my stop.
After showering I went off to buy some cigs at the local restaurant/ shop (cigs are well cheap here..a pack of 20 'Belmonts' cost $1.20..60 pence, which doesn't help the effort to give up smoking at all) and as usual the place was empty
Volcan Merida 6
. Instead of customers sitting around, the owners whole family were gathered around whilst strumming on guitars and singing. I was bullied into joining in with the chorus and then I gave them a hearty applause. Noticed a funny thing on the menu (an A3 sheet of paper taped to the wall); the prices of chicken and beef had been changed from 35 to 40 Cordoba's (quite obviously done in a big red marker pen) which was coincidentally what me and the Swedes ate for dinner last night.Dinner and beers followed as myself and the Swedes celebrated our small ascent. Then went to bed well tired and dreaming of chocolate (I've craved chocolate since the failed volcano hike).
Nov 19th - Merida (Lake Nicaragua)
Today was supposed to be my last day here at the lakeside paradise and I was going to take the afternoon bus to Altagracia, from where I take a ferry the next morning at 6am towards Costa Rica. Unfortunately the ferry time wasn't at 6am but rather 6pm (the manager at the Altagracia hotel said 6am) so I had to stay another night here (not a bad thing really).
This morning had to bid farewell to yet more great people I've met durin my travels
Hacienda Merida
. Matheus and Christina had a boat to catch today. Who knows we may meet again in South America somewhere.After breakfast I hired a kayak for a few hours and went floating around the lake. More specifically I was looking for Monkey Island. It was visible from the hotel but I wanted to see the few monkeys that lived there. It was a tiny island (you could walk across it in 10 seconds) with about 4 monkeys who were prone to jumping on the kayaks (and apparantly biting people). I sort of kept my distance and went around them wondering if they were so vicious because they just wanted to escape the boredom of the island. Kayaking back to shore was well tough as heavy winds just set in and kept pushing me back towards the monkeys (was I destined to live on the tiny island with them?).
Eventually made it back and after lunch went for a good long swim and a chill on the peer. Chilled all afternoon reading, swimming and talking to a few backpackers. Saw a sight that made me feel terrible on my way back to the hotel room; a puppy I had seen frolicking around for a few days (skinny as a rake) was foaming at the mouth and walking erratically in circles and growling (I guess it may be rabies). Just 2 nights ago I had sneaked him some of my rice dinner to fatten him up a bit
Merida statuette
. I doubt whether he'll make it in the next few days.In the late afternoon I made the usual failed attempt to upload my blog (internets too slow and I couldn't load my mobile software)..gave that up and went to my new cheap favourite restaurant for an early dinner. I ordered pasta and salad tonight just as a test to see if they would put the prices up for that aswell. Was a good meal at $1.50 (half the hotel price).
Very relaxed sunday night of sitting on the jetty and doing some star gazing. The stars and sky seem so much bigger here than in England so it made for some fascinating watching. Wish I knew abit more about the stars to be able to distinguish them as I travel to different continents.
Nov 20th & 21st - Merida to La Fortuna (Costa Rica)
Had pretty much the whole day to chill for the upcoming journey to Costa Rica so took it nice and easy. Made use of the facilities at the hotel; internet, swimming in the lake, lots of tea and then hammock time (don't touch this...). Went to pay my bill and then realised I didn't have enough cash on me (thought I had enough) and the only place that had an ATM machine on the island was 2 hours bus ride away (meaning I'd miss my boat for today). Luckily they accept Paypal payments for half the bill so the day was saved (happy days).
At 3.15 I had to tear myself away from the hammock and after bidding an adios to the friendly staff at the hotel I waited by the main road armed with a bottle of coke (whilst waiting I checked the label and saw that this one was made in 2001..can coke last that long, or more importantly can the plastic bottle last the coke?) and a bag of bread for the long trip ahead
San Ramon Waterfall hike 1
.Right on time the bus picked me up at 3.30 and after 50 minutes of bumping and bum cheek pulverising roads I arrived back in Altagracia. Had just enough time to grab a quick bite of chicken and chips ($2.50) and then kicked myself for being so stupid (eating a hearty greasy meal before a 10 hour boat trip isn't very wise if the water's rough).
After just finishing the meal a desparate looking fella came up to me because him and his girlfriend only had enough money for the ferry ($1.50) but had some Euro's. They desparately wanted to change them to get across to Costa Rica. Unfortunately I was well short on cash too so couldn't help them (I had just enough to get the ferry, eat something cheap and pay any border charges ($18 to be precise). The best I could do was lend them a few dollars for food on the ferry.
Queuing for the ferry was a shambles so by the time I actually bought my ticket and got on the ferry there was no space. The ever helpful seating organiser shouted at sneaky Nicaraguans who were taking up 2 seats instead of the one and I managed to squeeze between someone.
San Ramon Waterfall hike 2
Entertainment for the trip was a showing of Rambo 1 (I think this may be the 3rd time I've seen it on this trip). The atmosphere in 2nd class was really good, almost like being in a mobile market; people sprawled on the floor, a small shop selling food and snacks a few people walking around selling stuff (one bloke was selling a lighter that had a built in torch...I couldn't reist for 45c).
By 12 I was starting to regret not getting a first class ticket (2nd class $1.50, 1st class $3.50) as sleeping was almost impossible on the minimallly padded seats. Rumours were coming down from the 1st class area of cushioned reclining seats, free foot and head massages, stewardesses, free drinks and a swimming pool (all wicked lies of course).
Desperation to sleep overtook so I just sneaked on the floor under the seat and tried to get as comfy as possible with feet kicking me, boxes digging into my back and after hearing a strange sound near my ears realised I was sleeping with a chicken next to my head. Me and the chicken ended up getting a few hours kip.
Every 3 hours the ferry would dock and a few people would disembark and even more would get on
San Ramon Waterfall hike 3
. The shouting seating manager (big fella, not to be trifled with) chastised people who were taking up too much space (me included) and miracuously everyone got a seat.Finally to everyones relief we arrived in San Carlos at 5.30 am (pitch black). Me and the really nice couple Anne-Marie (Irish girl who comes from near Doneghal but lived in Madrid for the last 5 years) and Antoine (French fella who comes from Spain) hooked up with a few other backpackers (funny Canadian fella who is an expert in worldwide toilet habits), a Polish fella and an Aussie bloke) and we all plotted in the town square waiting for the first boat down the Rio Frio to Los Chiles. Heard a scary story about a girl who recently developed a hearing problem. After seeing the doctor it seems a cockroach had crawled into her ear. All the doctor could do was tell her to put alcohol in the ear which would kill it and eventually fall out (holy shit!!).
Finally after dozing a few times in the town square the Nicaraguan immigration office opened at 9am. Passports were stamped and a $2 exit fee was charged. Then onto a motor boat for the beautiful ridedown the Rio Frio.
Saw some beautiful birdlife (kingfishers, skinny long-legged birds, tiny colourful ones), some turtles, loads of monkeys screaming from the branches and even an alligator sunning on a bank. At one point the boat stopped to pick up some sticks which were then used to hoist a Costa Rican flag (apparently boats get turned back from Costa Rica without a flag on the boat).
After the 1 hour boat ride I finally reached Los Chiles and went through the usual passport checks (surprisingly I didn't have to pay for entry)
San Ramon Waterfall hike 4
. Finally I was in Costa Rica (Hurrah) but feeling sad that I'd left Nicaragua..really liked it alot. As a treat we had a slapp up lunch of burger and chips ($2).Next was a 2 hour bus ride to Flores (slept most of the journey) and then caught another bus to Fortuna. Arrived there at 7pm and after hunting down a cheapish hotel for $15 (most budget places were full...other hotels were charging $40 a night) had a quick cleanup and then straight out to dinner with Anne-Marie and Antoine. Friendliest people I've met on this trip sofar..really good people. By 9pm I could hardly keep my eyes open and as soon as I got back to the hotel I collapsed on the bed and dreamt about a boat full of chickens complaining that I was taking up too much space (some form of revenge because I've been eating alot of chicken lately).
22nd - Fortuna
Today I felt I deserved a lie-in after being on the road non-stop for 27 hours (funny thing is I didn't cover that much distance but shit, it took ages. I had the option of taking the easy route across the border in the south which would have taken a third of the time but yesterday was an unforgettable experience and the river boat to the border was worth it..even if I fell asleep sometimes and was woken up only when there was a scream of 'Monkeys' from fellow passengers.).
Avoided breakfast (its really expensive here in Costa..most meals are $4-5 each) and so had a combined breakfast/ lunch at a whopping $4.50. After lunch did some email checking and had a walk around town.
San Ramon Waterfall hike 5
Fortuna's a very commercial town..everywhere there are tourists making use of the activities around here and quite a big American presence. The main attraction nearby is Volcan Arenal (the most activ volcano in Central America). Rather than do a hike up there durin the day when you hardly see anything I opted for the night trip which is more dramatic ($25 including a visit to a hot water spring...well actually a hot water waterfall).
At 5pm, armed with a litre of beer the organised tour set off (including my new mates Antoine and Anne-Marie). After a 1 hour drive we reached the start point (pitch black) and armed with my new gadget (the lighter/ torch...which I might add everyone laughed at) we set off for the 45 minute hike up to see some volcano action.
We were warned about deadly snakes, spiders and frogs along the way. The guide showed us a termite mound and then suddenly had a hand full of small termites. I stupidly dared Antoine to eat some and if he did I'd do the same. Without hesitation he licked the guides hand and must have eaten 50 ants...so, true to my word I wet my finger (not too keen on licking people's hands) filled it with ants and then ate them. They actually tasted ok..slightly perfumy (memories of I'm a Celebrity Get Me Out of Here came back to me).
By the time we all reached the place to watch the volcano it was pretty hidden with clouds but after a patient 30 minute wait the clouds made way and the full glory of the volcano's cone could be seen. The lava looked really beautiful with a bright orange glow and the sound was amazing
Merida Monkey Island
. I could clearly hear the sound of cracking and crunching of rocks as the orange balls of fire crashed down the slopes (Great Balls of Fire). I could even see the bright orange crater at the top of the cone. The whole spectacle was like a natural fireworks display. An American and her daughter and the guide had died here quite recently when the mother forced the guide to go passed the safety line and they got caught in the lava. The guide had miraculously survived but died in hospital.After the hike back (and many photos with the guys) we drove to the hot springs. Changing into swimming stuff was done in the car park (quite embarrassing when I nearly fell over with my shorts stuck on my toes). Then a short walk into a misty river and after clambering down a few rocks I was standing in steaming warm water. It was really nice to be in a natural hot spring rather than a man made one. The water flow was so powerful that we could lie down and get pushed downstream. At the end there a was a small waterfall and a pool where everyone soaked (everyone was going ooooh...aaaaah they were so relaxed). The waterfall proved to be a great massager which I sorely needed after the mammoth travel 2 days ago.
The litre of beer was gone pretty quickly by this time and me and Antoine and Anne-Marie could have quite easily stayed for longer but the others in the group were getting restless. Arrived back at the hotel just before 11 and was too shattered to go for dinner so after a hot shower (first one in a month) I crashed.
The plan for the next week is half a day more in Fortuna to catch the impressive waterfall (never can resist the lure of water) then bus it to Monteverde and Santa Elena where I'll enjoy the delights of the cloud forests and its nature and if I'm feeling brave enough do the wire slide down through the trees. Then a few days travel to San Jose and beyond. I should be across the border and into Panama by the end of November (Costa Rica's is beyond my budget so need to make tracks).
