Week 11 - Tikal to San Pedro (Lake Atitlan)
Trip Start
Aug 01, 2007
1
22
69
Trip End
Dec 19, 2008
San Pedro La Laguna,
Guatemala
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Oct 11th - Antigua
After a long night of travel arrived In Antigua at 8am. Sadly it was pissing it down but still looked impressive and beautiful. Found my chosen hotel (Internacional Morachi $14 for 2 people) and settled in and chilled in their really relaxing garden. Its pretty chilly here, so wearing waterproofs I went for a long walk on the cobbled streets with the amazing backdrop of volcanoes. Noticing way more tourists here than previous towns.
Food seems to be pretty pricey here so as I usually do in towns and city's I headed as far from the main square as possible for the cheaper food option.
To change the subject completely, I've totally gotten used to oblutions here in this part of the world
Antigua Pacaya Volcano 1
. Toilet paper is not to be flushed away but has to be dumped in a bin. Sometimes this is a scary sight to behold but for obvious environmental reasons its all good. Hot water is also a bit of a luxury. Its always available at my budget hotels but the timing has to be just right. Sometimes it only works early mornings, sometimes late at night and of course the jackpot is evenings (always only works for 30 minutes at any time. The unlucky sod is the one who is showering when it cuts off)The Mayan people are dressed so colourfully here, especially the woman who wear bright reds, blues, yellows and greens which throws any kind of colour co-ordination out the window but looks amazing. Hearing alot more of the Mayan language aswell which to my un-trained ears sounds more harsh and gutteral than other languages in this part of the world but musical at the same time.
Very tired from yesterdays events and the night bus so an easy dinner and sleep glorious sleep.
Oct 12th - Antigua
Another wet and slightly chilly day here in Antigua
Antigua Pacaya Volcano 2
. I always thought it would be pretty hot here but it is rainy season now. Had a healthy breakfast at a local bakery shop which consisted of a slice of Cheesecake and a cuppa (probably my 5th proper cup of cha since leaving the US) for $2.Walked around for a couple of hours and yes Antiigua is beautiful but I would argue that Oaxaca and San Cristobal del Casa are more so. Quite a few people would disagree with me on that but I find Antigua very touristy. Big tour coaches of tourists would stop and out would pour hordes of people with cameras.
Bumped into a funny Aussie girl I'd met on the bus from Palenque to Flores. She had argued about a 50 cent border charge for 5 minutes with the Mexican officials (to the embarrassment of everyone on the minibus...except me, I thought it was very funny and encouraged her). After that I nicknamed her Eboneelisa Scrooge. Really nice girl though.
In the afternoon had to make some official calls to cancel Seungmi's stolen credit cards and travellers cheques (again well happy nothing else was nicked). Met a nice Korean couple who knew of the secret location of the only Korean restaurant in town and was invited along
Antigua Pacaya Volcano 3
. Never tried Korean food before and never realised it could be so spicy..boy was it hot. Siesta time and then went to book a trip up the Volcano Pacaya for tomorrow ($7). Normally I'd try and go it alone but it seems every tourist spot there is in Guate theres some kind of robbery warning unless going with a guide (hmm wonder if theres some kind of monolopy here. Getting the boat across Guatemala's no mans land I was told if I walked 15 minutes along the river I could get the boat for one tenth of the price of the bigger company but face a high risk of being robbed on the way because the main boat company don't like it).
Wanted to catch a film tonight but timed it badly and got to the cinema too late for Stardust so came back and chilled in cafe in the main square and did some people watching. Very busy with the usual traffic but every now and then a Mayan kid or old fella would trot past on a horse ignoring all traffic (thats the way to travel).
Oct 13th - Antigua
Had the volcano trip to do this afternoon (theres a morning and afternoon trip but apparrently the lighting is way better in the afternoon) so took it easy in the morning and did the usual laundry duty
Antigua Pacaya Volcano bbq king
.Met the minibus at 1pm. Aswell as the driver there was also a hard looking fella wielding hard looking shotgun (our security). The drive was the roughest and bumpiest I've had so far and after 1.5 hours we reached the starting point for the Volcano trek. Even before the bus stopped we were surrounded by screaming kids selling walking sticks and plastic sheets (it was bucketing). I bought a stick (20c) and a sheet (40c) because I'd heard it was a tough walk.
The two hour walk uphill was well tough and loads of people were slipping in the mud. There was a mule rider behind us as backup. It was very tempting to pay the $9 to ride all the way up but eventually it levelled out. A short walk downhill and the temperature soared and everyone was dry within a minute of standing near the lava. Some people were wearing thin soled shoes (daft) and could walk very far over the dried lava as their feet were burning too much. Very amazing to poke active lava with a stick and watch it slowly drip down. The heat was just incredible. Everywhere little pockets of sulphur smoke would pour out.
After a while the three Israeli guys produced a bag of hot dogs and started preparing for a barbie
Antigua Pacaya Volcano guide plays with lava
. They had to use the walking sticks as extensions because you just couldn't get close enough without them.Generously the hot dogs were shared with the group. Quite weird munching on hot dogs next to an active volcano.
After 2 hours of walking hell (muddy, dark and steep) back to the bus we had a drink and our security guy let us hold the shotgun and take some pics (It was well heavy but made me think what may have happened had I been holding this on the bus a few days prior...doesn´t even bear thinking about, probably would have shot myself in the foot).
Got back to Antigua at night and was so knackered I just fancied a snack dinner. In a local shop I repeatedly tried to ask for a Pot Noodle (they have their own variety here and its pretty tasty) in Spanish but they didn't understand me at all. I nearly gave up when the shop owner took me and Seungmi to the back of the shop where there was a long table and seated there eating were some local families. She sat us down and brought out two plates of the most delicious spaghetti bolognese with fresh bread and a soda (all for $1...bliss).
Durin dinner had a chat with an Argentine hippy who sells bikes around Latin America
Tooled up I head back to Tikal
. Really nice bloke and told me loads of sites to see in Argentina (when drawing a rough map of Argentina he even included the Falkland Isles..at which point we both laughed). He gave me his number so when I get to Argentina I'll look him up.Oct 14th - Panajachel
Last day in Antigua today so booked a ticket for the afternoon bus to Lake Atitlan ($8). Had to replace my stolen watch and sunglasses so made a beeline for the market. It being a Sunday it was very busy and very colourful. Lots of local folk buying fruit, clothes and all sorts. Finally found a half decent pair of shades for $5 (suspected to be stolen from a tourist) and an Adidas watch for $6 (again suspect). For that kind of price I won't be too fussed if they get nicked. Maybe it was foolish of me to bring my favourite sunglasses on my travels. Also bought a snide Chelsea top for the bargain price of $6 (even cheaper than Thailand but quality is really crap).
Nearly missed the bus to Lake Atitlan and arrived just as it was pulling away. The drive was a rough one as the main highway was hit by landslides the night before so the driver took ropy local roads. The driver was a friendly fella who had the misfortune to have droopy eyes and look like Droopy from the cartoons
Beautiful Antigua
. A daft Argentinian girl thought he was tired and told him his driving was bad and he looked sleepy so he should rest. Of course he got abit angry with this and told her he was fine and had been driving for 25 years.Arrived in Panajachel (the main town on Lake Atitlan) and yes it was raining here too. Found the gorgeous hotel Mario Rooms ($15) and settled for a while in a hammock in their lovely garden. Had a cheap and cheerful chicken dinner with fruit punch for $3 then booked a bus for tomorrow to see the colourful Mayan market in a town called Chichi (great name).
Oct 15th - San Pedro La Laguna (Lake Atitlan)
Early 8am start and waited for the bus to Chichi. Bus arrived and it was the same driver as yesterday (yep, he looked sleepy again). After a 2 hour drive reached the bustling market of Chichi. It was packed with local Mayans and tourists. The locals would come here to buy pigs, chickens, turkeys, eggs, bananas, tortillas and thousands of other things. Seems to be a thriving market in snide music cd's and very cheap too ($4 will get you a newish album).
The colours and smells are amazing as you walk through each section of market and theres no mercy when people want to pass..its a case of just barging through
Lake Atitlan Chichi market 1
. Nearly got attacked by a gang of turkeys as a guy carrying a basket of them on his head tried to barge passed me but mis-timed it and walked into a stall corner and then me instead. The basket of screaming turkeys pretty much landed on my head (bloody things were everywhere but no harm done and all the turkeys were found eventually).There is only so much shopping a man can take and after 4 hours I gave up and headed back to the bus pickup point (2 hours early) and pretty much collapsed on some stairs nearby. Starting to feel a cold coming on and a touch of fever. The fruits of my 4 hours of shopping was a really nice Mayan style water bottle holder that slings over the shoulder.
Back on the bus and another hair-raising drive back to Pana. Picked up my pack and walked down to the boat launch area. Had to wait around for 30 minutes for a small boat that goes to another launch area ($3). Then had to wait a whopping 1 hour for the final boat to San Pedro to fill up (the Captain refused to budge until it was full). I had hot and cold shakes by this point and was feeling really shitty.
Finally the boat left and after a 30 minute bum cheek and jaw bone shattering ride I arrived in San Pedro at night
Lake Atitlan Chichi market 2
. The place looks really nice and peaceful with just a few restaurants by the launch area and beautiful bohemian narrow cobbled streets. After what seemed like a lifetime of walking I arrived at my chosen hotel (Sak'Cari). Not the cheapest in town but I negotioted a good deal for a 2 week stay ($10 for 2 people per night) which in my state was a miracle in itself. I literally fell into bed and spent the whole night shivering and trying to sleep (crap..gotta see a doctor again just in case).
Oct 16th - San Pedro La Laguna (Lake Atitlan)
When I did finally manage to drag myself out of bed I headed for the only doctor in town. After waiting a monstrous 2 hours (actually fell asleep in waiting room) the doctor checked me over and thankfully all I had was a ear and throat infection for which he prescribed antibiotics. All good stuff I thought until I gave the prescription to the receptionist. When she asked for $70 I nearly laughed at her (well I did actually). Tried to reason with her that I could actually get a new throat and ear for that kind of money. I did manage to knock the price down a bit to a final price of $60. Didn't have that kind of money on me so in the pouring rain had to traipse back to the hotel, get my credit card, traipse to the bank and then traipse back to Dr
Lake Atitlan Chichi market 3
. Dollar feeling even sicker but also feeling pissed off and like I've been robbed twice in a week.I never like paying more than locals for things (I class it as a form of racism) but maybe I'm just too used to the NHS and a common service for all. Seungmi also explained that in Korea there is a tier system of paying for medication; so from poor to rich and depending on assets like a car, house etc you have to pay more (fair enough).
Spent the rest of the day wrapped up in bed watching Lake Atitlan (yes I can see the lake from bed...gorgeous view) with one eye and watching the numerous games of football on TV (sadly no England games).
Oct 17th - San Pedro
As I was feeling abit better and pumped full of painkillers and antibiotics Seungmi decided to head back to Tikal for a few days (don't blame her..the ruins were amazing there and we never got to see it the 2nd time).
I just chilled in the room and had a few brief walks around the small town. Got lost a few times because although a small place most of the tiny narrow streets look the same. Even in my feverish state I could appreciate the good vibe here.
Back at the hotel just watched TV and some mad and strange birds hanging out on a tree outside the big window. Every 5 minutes they would start chirping hysterically and then like a squadron of Kamikazi pilots would attack the window and peck at it
Chichi market wall paintiig
. Quite un-nerving at first but the I realised they were grabbing flies and other insects hiding along the window edges. Quite big birds with bright yellow breasts and brown backs. I also have a stray ginger and brown kitten that keeps me company outside the door (never comes in though). The plan for the next week is to get better then start my Spanish classes. I may only do one week because its kind of dreary and rainy here. I had hoped for a kind of idyllic spot where I could learn Spanish in a sunny garden in the mornings and then explore, swim around in the afternoons. No such luck...its rained every single day here and its kind of chilly. We'll see
