Week 5 - Tijuana to Los Mochis
Trip Start
Aug 01, 2007
1
12
69
Trip End
Dec 19, 2008
Los Mochis, Mexico
Thursday, September 6, 2007
30th August - Tijuana (Mexico)
Got the Greyhound from San Diego to Tijuana ($14 and 25 mins) and boy am I suffering a serious hangover. Not the best condition to take on this lively place of clubs, bars and debauchery. Arrived at the border and accidentally crossed over the into Mexico without even knowing it (well easy to cross from US to Mexico..no chance of that vice versa). I had to cross back over as I needed a tourist visa for my longish stay in Mexico ($34) and also had to hand my US visitors card to US officials. (not getting the visa at the border can cause problems with police if they stopped me).
After much waiting and paperwork I was finally through and into Mechicco (well officially anyway) and following the throng of people leaving and going
Gouchos near Morege
. I really felt like I was in Mexico now. The smells, colours and people all made it so. Wanted to take photos of the crowds but was warned off because it was the border area.It was quite late in the day so I settled for a mid-range hotel in the centre called Hotel El Rey ($24 (£12) for a room..sweeeeet). Had a walk around town and had a few beers (hair of the dog and all that). Was really lively. Loads of bars and clubs and cheap as chips but loads of Americans around. Well, it is their party town after all.
Earlyish night as tomorrow I need to find the local bus terminal and head down the Baja California strip to a small, sleepy beach town called Mulege where I hope to spend a few days chilling on the beach and recovering from the 4700 odd miles of US driving. This will be my halfway point to La Paz, right at the bottom of the California Baja strip.
31st August - Seat 12, Trans Americana bus to Mulege
Eventually found the bus terminal using my Michelle Thomas broken spanish and booked the bus. Shit, 17 hour bus journey to Mulege (I didn't think it was that far!?). The cost was $100. Travel in Mexico seems to be pretty pricey so gonna have to watch my budget which incidentally is ($40 (£20) per day in Central America). From now I'm going to stay in the cheapest possible place, La Cocker-a-cha's and bedbugs included.
The bus was very comfy
Catedral La Paz
. Air con, recliners, videos (was forced to watch Ice Age 2 (looked very good to me), Lion King 3 and I Heart Huckerbees in spanish.Also got chatting to Doug (Sottish but a London resident..Queens Park no less) and his Aussie wife Amber who are doing a trip around Mexico for 12 weeks and are then settling in Sydney. Really nice couple.
Bus arrived in the small town of Mulege at 5am. The journey went quicker than expected but at that kind of time the town was dead. Me, Doug and Amber wandered the town with packs (thank God I travel light) looking for lodgings. Most were over budget but eventually I found a low budget room for $25 at Manuelita's (still abit over budget for me but good for 1 night..and it seemed the cheapest in town). It was grotty and had some 'La Cocko-ra-cha's' in bathroom, about 2 million tiny ants crawling up the bed legs and the TV was broken (well, at least I had something to look at). As I opened the door a crazy feral kitten dashed into the room and jumped on the bed. I had to chase it round the room. It probably left a ton of fleas aswell.
1st September - Mulege
Settled into the room and had a wander around for breakfast. Still too early so had a look around town (all 20 buildings of it). The main square had a mini funfair set up. I'll have to investigate that later on.
Slap up breakfast and then straight to the beach for me
Ahhh beach in La Paz
. Now, I was told by a few locals that the beach was 1-2 km walk from town...boy that was wrong. After what seemed like a 5 mile walk and losing about a stone in weight (never been so hot in all my life) I eventually got to the sea. Not much of a beach at all but the water looked clean. Sat near a rocky bit and saw some beautiful shoals of fish; black and yellow striped, bright blue, bright purple, red and some huge silver ones. Went for a long swim and was standing in the water when I felt something pinch my leg. I must have jumped 2 foot in the air (was abit paranoid because nobody was swimming or on the beach). Was it sharks?..jellyfish?..nope, just a tiny blue fish had pulled one of my leg hairs.After a few hours of this and getting myself slightly burnt (medium rare please) I headed back to town. Arrived back soaking with sweat and realised why the Mexicans always have a siesta in the afternoon (It is Hot with a capital Ho). I think I'm just going to spend one night here and do some chilling further south in La Paz. This town really is too sleepy and pricey for me.
After a slap up dinner with Doug and Amber I headed off to the funfair. Looked good fun with families of Mexicanos dressed up to the nines. Alot of Tequila fuelled blokes stumbling around too. Was nearly tempted with a few shots but thought better of it. Plenty of time to sample the Tequila's elsewhere.
Made the decision to definately move on to La Paz tomorrow. This place is abit too pricey, no beaches nearby and no good bars. The people are really nice though and this is the kind of non-commercial place everyone that comes here loves
Crazy guy in outfit promoting nailcare La Paz
. 2nd September - Seat 27, Mexican bus and La Paz
Waited around for the bus to La Paz in the sweltering heat. Finally arrived and settled in for a 7 hour ride (cost $50). Uneventful ride but great views of beautiful beaches with shelters on the sand (I've heard you can sleep under these overnight and just jump in the sea before breakfast..nice), fields of cacti (huge ones, tiny ones but millions of them). Watched The Fog in spanish. Looked really pants and probably no way as good as James Herberts' book.
Arrived in La Paz at 7pm and immediately liked the place; very relaxed, bars and restaurants facing the sea, long walking prominade...but blimey it was scochio!
Bid a sad farewell to Doug and Amber as they were heading further south on the bus. Great when you meet cool people that you get on with on the road.
After an hour of looking for my budget motel finally found it.
Sunsetting in La Paz
Great place called the Hosteria del Convento and at $17 (£9) a night I was a happy man. No aircon, bedding or towels but nice and clean (i may regret the lack of aircon tomorrow). Did I mention it is seriously hot here. Really humid heat. You just have to tie your shoe laces and your sweating like a pig. After a 10 minute walk all my clothes would be drenched.Had a casual dinner of Tacos on the promenade, watched the sea and stars for a bit and then had a few beers. Walked around abit more to orientate myself then tomorrow I make a beeline to the tourist office to find out where to book my ferry to mainland Mexico, find an internet place and also where the best beaches are.
Bed bugs got me again last night in what I have dubbed the Hilton zoo (Morege) so tonight is the night for my trusty (well not yet) silk sleeping sheet to prove its worth.
3rd September - La Paz (Mexico)
Not much sleep last night. Woke up at 4am to the sound of rattling windows..major storm outside
Some Pelicans settling in La Paz
. Once it died down I got out of bed to check and stood ankle deep in water (as was my pack and most of its contents..bollox). I had a flashback of when I was in Nam..erm no Madagascar, when I lost most of my gear in a flash flood. When I finished unpacking and semi-drying everything I felt the building shake. Bloody earthquake.a minor one but still. I'll have to get used to these crazy weather and ground shakes. Even after only a few hours kip I got up early and had a wander around town. Checked out the Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Paz (built in 1861..not stunning from the outside but built in such a simple way it was charming and very spacious inside) Then walked around the back streets watching the Mexicans go about their business. Its amazing that they don't seem to sweat in this heat. I'm having to duck from shop to shop with aircon pretending I'm interested in their goods just to keep awake. Also, with so many people around and outside all day doesn't anyone work here?
Stopped at a food stall and seeing as I've gone over budget already its time to live off stall food for a while. Thought I'd try out my Spanish in front of quite a few customers "Que chiere?" I asked the food seller (thinking I'm asking him 'what have you got?'..I now know it means "What do you want?"). He looked very confused and not too impressed and replied "blah, blah, blah, blah, blah" (thats exactly what I understood). I replied "una, por favor" and was given a prawn (battered) taco ($1). Now prawns are one of the only things I don't eat but I wasn't gonna lose face after all my language confusion so ate it up. Verrrrrry tasty. I told him 'No hablo Espanol' and he agreed fully.
More Pelicans settling in La Paz
Siesta time for me in the afternoon (the streets really empty out around 3-5pm when everyone gets out of the crazy heat. Then went for a long walk down the prominade and out of town. My mission; to find a decent beach for a splash about. After an hour of walking found a decent spot and plotted down for a relaxing few hours of swimming and catching rays. Just me and a family had the beach all to ourselves.
On the way back bought myself some meat tacos this time and had them on the beach (a cheap dinner on the beach for $2 and a beautiful sunset thrown in for the price). After all the walking and sweating needed a sugar blast so bought an ice cream ($2..blooody pricey) and walked back for an early night. No beer tonight (can't afford it at moment).
Tomorrows plan is to book my ferry ticket across the Gulf Of California and to mainland Mexico (to Los Mochis). I think the ferry journey is gonna be an all-nighter (please let me have my sea legs...september is bad weather and storms month).
4th September - La Paz
Bloody hell talk of the devil
La Paz promenade
! Woke up at 6am to hear thunderous winds and water coming down by the bucket-loads. Opened the door to my room and there was a river of filthy water right outside my door. All the other guests were standing inside their doors staring in shock. Couldn't leave the room for a while so ate some breakfast bars (bought specifically for such an occasion).Donned my waterproof jacket and headed out. All the roads were almost knee deep in water so the going was slow. Managed to get a taxi to the Baja Ferry office (I didn't hold any hope of the ferry going ahead...even if it was I wouldn't get it in this storm). As predicted no ferries..airport was closed too. Shit, hope I don't get stuck here too long. Will try again tomorrow.
99% of the shops were closed and the owners had sellotaped the windows (not sure how serious a storm this will be if they have to do that). I had planned a trip to the local Anthropological museum (yep, shut too). There was one crazy food seller still open on the street (tons of customers) so I grabbed the chance for lunch and ordered 2 delicious pancakes filled with beef stew, onion and chillie (Mmmmmm ummmmm). Only set me back $2.
I had to see for myself how bad the seas were so wading through road-rivers up to my knees and went to the sea
Queen and Phillips visit plaque La Paz
. It really was rough (nearly made me sea-sick just looking at it). Boats anchored were being tossed around like toys and palm trees were bent half way to the ground.Found a cafe that offered free 15 minutes on their computer when you buy a drink so sorted out the usual blog updates and emails. Then back to the room as everythings shut and nobody is daft enough to be outside. It was a quiet evening/night for me. Thank God I had some books and a great game on my trusty Nokia called Ancient Empires.
After another earthquake shook the room (scary stuff when you're not used to it) it dawned on me that I hadn't had dinner. Even though there were gale force winds outside I went on the hunt for food (anyone that knows me well knows that nothing stands in the way of me and food when I get the hunger).
The streets were totally deserted. Just a few stary dogs and police cars patrolling. It felt like a curfew. I was walking for at least an hour in the seriously strong rain and gale force winds. At one point a stray dog latched itself onto me. I kept telling him he's wasting his time with me: firstly I have no food buddy and secondly if you follow me you'll get lost and walk around in circles. Eventually he realised how hopeless it was and left. Finally found a beacon of hope in the shape of a 24 shop (only one open in all La Paz) and got som grub down me.
Got back had some food and had a game of 'shit head' with a posse of English lads from Farnham and Guildford. They're over for 6 weeks of travel in US and Mexico. Everyone is always quite shocked when I mention how long I may be on the road for
Flooding roads La Paz
.Its actually nice to have some rain as there's no need for the noisy fan all night and lack of sleep due to the heat (nice). Just pray the storm clears for tomorrows ferry...please!? Really need to get going.
5th September - La Paz
The devastation caused by the storm in La Paz was pretty bad. In the morning I had a walk around town and saw pavements ripped up (earthquake), electricity pylons uprooted and loads of poor palm trees destroyed.
Went straight to the Baja Ferries office and there was a glimmer of hope. There may be a ferry today and after an hour of them checking satellite photos of the predicted hurricane route they said 'Si' (Ole!).
Bought the ticket ($72..again, bloody pricey) and so had the rest of the day to wasteas it leaves at 8pm (damnit, going to arrive in Los Mochis at 4am!).
Tried the Baja Anthropological museum but no joy. Closed because of storm. Had a look around the shops and the beach. Found a peer where the Queen and my mate Phil the Greek landed in 1982 for a visit to La Paz (who would have thought?).
Back to the hotel and had a long chat with a straggler from the Farnham posse. Huge football fan (Liverpool) and a DJ back home
A storms brewing La Paz
. He filled me in on tranfsers and new signings + the fact that Chelsea lost to Villa and is 2nd (crap). At 6 it was time to get a taxi to the Ferry terminal ($13) (i tried the local buses but limited service).Ferry was supposed to leave at 8pm and in true Latin America style it finally left at 10.30. It was a huge roll on/ roll off ship. Thought I was going to get a cabin for that price but got a standard seat like on a plane. Watched a really good Khazhakstan film (never caught the name of it) and Troy in Spanish. Took a couple of tablets to help my sea legs and ended up just falling asleep for the whole journey (nice..no need to pay for accomodation that night).
Finally arrived in Los Mochis at a slightly more decent time of 6am. Got a shared taxi ($5 each) into town and booked into my low budget hotel (Los Arcos, $18). The whole room floor was flooded but I'm getting used to this now.
The plan for the this next week is to catch the 6am train ride through the Copper Canyon. This is one of the greatest train journeys in the world going through canyons and cliffs. I'll get off at Creel, have a look at the canyon proper (meant to be more spectacular than even the Grand Canyon), then onto some provincial silver mining towns, a town where they have ancient mummified Aztec bodies and onto a town called Durango where they filmed loads of wild west films (quite a few John Wayne ones) and still have alot of the sets standing.
Latest...the Copper Canyon train has been cancelled indefinately due to flooding and storms. Holy shit!! I´m going to wait another day here just in case it clears. If not I´ll catch a bus to the next town and see from there.
