Nanjing at Random

  Nanjing, China
Friday, August 18, 2006

Nanjing is for some, still China's true capital city. Certainly the location is rather more intuitive for the capital than the northern location of Beijing. To people outside China, myself included, Nanjing is little known, an insignificant city. Arriving there instantly dispels this notion. It is big. I can't see that immediately, but I can feel it. It has that buzz of a really big city, designed that way rather than the disparate affiliation of population centres I've encountered in other, more modern population centres in China.

I'm curious about Nanjing, and being in the vicinity (in the context of China, 4 hours travel is nothing), and armed as I am with an air ticket out of the city tomorrow, there's time for a flying visit. So it is that I arrive late afternoon and opt for the first offer of a ride to a hotel and part with 80RMB for the night. It's not luxury or a cleverly managed piece of business, but it's somewhere to sleep and the people are friendly and no doubt delighted that they've got a good deal. Time is of the essence though, and I implement my latest pearl of wisdom for visiting Chinese cities. I don't know if it will work, but it does. Take the Number 1 bus! If you don't know about a Chinese city, just find the Number 1 because chances are it will do a big loop through downtown for about 2 kuai.

So to the monster that is Nanjing. It's not a particularly beautiful city, but the markets and restaurants of Fuzi Miao are a tourist highlight.

01. Fuzi Miao at night

I can testify that it is not a city to be explored on foot - it's too damn big. Nonetheless, I think I'd like to return with a sounder knowledge of Chinese history under my belt. It is undoubtedly a destination which has more resonance for Chinese people for a variety of reasons.

02. Fuzi Miao Colours

For me, the one thing I wanted to see was Zhongshan Ling, the tomb of the creator of the Chinese Republic, Sun Yat Sen. The man may have played a pivotal role in the nation's history, but he was not bashful given the spectacular location he chose for his own mausoleum.

Zhongshan Ling is one of those rare places - especially in China - that is not over-hyped. It is a must see. Even if you understand nothing of its historical importance, it is stunningly impressive. I have to point out that I was there at 7 in the morning and had the place to myself, but I would love to return, once again armed with a better understanding of the role of this greatest of icons of modern Chinese history.

09. View over Nanjing

10. A tired but impressed traveller