My experience of NYEPI day - day of silence

Trip Start Feb 12, 2008

Trip End Apr 09, 2008

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Flag of Indonesia Seminyak, Indonesia
Saturday, March 8, 2008

I headed out from the villa in time for the celebrations to start on Jalan Legian. Having spent all but 20,000Rp ($2), my first stop was the ATM at Circle K. Closed. Someone said all the ATMs were closed. It is a holiday similar to our New Year so this was not unexpected (although I didn't expect it). I walked down the street to the next ATM, also closed. Amazingly, all traffic had stopped. There was not a single taxi in sight (on its own an amazing phenomenon). I asked a man on a motorbike if he would take me there - I had 20,000Rp I could give him. He said he could. I jumped on the back of his bike, no helmet and one hand on the grab rail between me and death. Streets were blocked off for the ceremony and street parade so we had to twist and turn through tiny gangs (lanes) at the back of places I never even knew existed. At one gang, a car had to pass by so closely, I felt its metal lightly brush my leg.

The driver dropped me off at the Bintang supermarket

Ogoh ogoh

. I paid him my last notes. Having spotted a circle of tourists, I made my way to find the purification ceremony in progress. Hundreds of Balinese in white sat on the road transfixed by a shaking guru wearing a lion's head. Soon people were being carried away, in an obvious state of distress screaming and gyrating. It reminded me of religious 'healings'. I knew the 'victims' were playacting as many of the audience were smiling at their friends' 'performance'. Suddenly everyone rose and entered the temple. Some time passed before guides made an appearance, carrying gongs, colourful umbrellas and baskets of offerings on their heads. The procession started and we all followed as they made their way down the street. The first phase had ended. The monsters would come later. A street parade was to be held later in the evening to display the Ogoh Ogoh (giant papier mache sculptures to ward off evil spirits).

Starting to feel the pangs of hunger and knowing I now had no cash, I looked around to find a restaurant that would take a credit card. There were limited places open and none took credit. I found one warung, told the manager I had no cash but did he take credit card.
'No, of course not! But don't worry, have a meal anyway. We have just opened!' He let me choose some beans and tofu in sauce, chicken legs and a beef pattie with rice

Carrying offerings

. And a diet coke. The best value dinner I've had since I've been here! I thanked him for his generosity and he told me to go and wait by the side of the road to watch the monsters.

I found a nice marble seat and waited. Bali time is like Nepal time, and Mexico time. Things happen when they happen; wait and be patient. I started talking to a young Aussie man who said he was working as a landscape architect on properties owned by his sister. Didn't I know there was a building boom going on in Bali? She owned the Canggu Club; did I know it? I had been there for a literary lunch the previous week and found an international standard country club for expats and their children. Luxurious and expensive, this place was magnificent. Not only did she own the Canggu Club but many other developments around Bali, in New Zealand and Hong Kong. This woman had to be famous and supremely busy. She's also adopted two Balinese babies. I said I was vaguely thinking about buying a property and he said to contact his sister. She'd be happy to give me advice. He took me to the villa around the corner where he was staying with his sister and I entered another magical place, modern kitchen, open Balinese style dining area with a resort-style pool and Balinese bale - all her own design. He gave me her number and we headed back to the parade. The Ogoh Ogoh had passed so I thanked him and quickly ran to catch up with the parade. The night continued for hours, following the many monsters in all their colours, the children and the fire carriers. Every now and then two Ogoh Ogoh would stop borne by many young men holding a bamboo raft-like structure. They would then run head on into each other, shake the raft and make the Ogoh Ogoh fight. The sweat was pouring off these young men by the end of the night.

I followed the Ogoh Ogoh back to their resting places along the road

Ogoh ogoh

. I had been told it was a 20-minute walk back along the beach to Seminyak. Thinking there would be hordes of people doing the same thing, I headed to Double Six beach. Not a soul and a pitch black beach beckoned. Just as I was pondering taking the long walk back via the road, a man on a motorbike stopped and offered me a lift. I told Wayan I had no money, he said don't worry, he was a security guard and surfing instructor and would take me back to my villa. After he dropped me back, he gave me his number and suggested I come down to the beach for a surf or a boat ride.

Amidst the commercialism and hunger for money, the Balinese have an innate honesty I have not recently found in Australian society.