Paihia - in the Bay of Islands
Trip Start
Nov 12, 2007
1
15
40
Trip End
Aug 01, 2008
We left Auckland and headed North to Paihia which is in the beautiful Bay of Islands. There are 144 islands in all. Paihia is a small resort in a bay and all you can see for miles is lots of islands and turquoise sea.
On our first full day we went on a day cruise. Whilst sailing out to the hole in the rock we came across several pods of dolphins. Normally, when we have been on boat trips and they promise dolphins you see one fin for a split second in the water and you count yourself lucky. On this trip we were surrounded by dolphins for at least 30 minutes and the pod included a couple of baby ones too.
After sailing out of the bay into the Pacific to see the eroded rocks, we then went back amongst the islands and the skipper moored up in a quiet bay on one of the undeveloped islands so we could swim, snorkel or just lounge on the beach for lunch. We had a relaxing hour there enjoying the views
On the way back to Paihia, as there were no more sightings of dolphins that people could swim with, he offered the more adventurous on board the chance to boon net (otherwise known as tourist drowning R). Basically, the crew attach a large net to the side of the boat and you can ride through the waves/ wash whilst holding on to the net.
The children went first and then the women were allowed to get into the net. There were a lot of brave souls which was a disadvantage because it meant most of the women were in the middle of the net and the netting lost its shape. As a result they were mostly under the water rather than riding the waves once the skipper sped the boat on.
Watching from the sides made me realise that I had made the wise decision not to have a go as these poor bikini clad girls clung on to the rope for dear life, swallowing gallons of water and not being able to see a thing, plus they were trying to keep their bikini bottoms on and not admit defeat by being the first one to get out. However, I think the men on the boat enjoyed watching the spectacle as they waited for their go.
Rob - my all new action man - decided he wanted to do it, and soon the men were doing their floundering fish impression and clinging desperately to the net as the skipper decided to go even faster. Rob survived but admitted it wasn't much fun as you constantly had a face full of salt water and your arms were nearly wretched out of the sockets holding on to the net but fair play to him, he kept his contact lenses in! Some time later he described himself as "battered" (I'm getting too old for this sort of thing R) which I thought was an appropriate description in the circumstances.There were a few scrages (just for you JC!) and net burns but nothing too serious.
On the Thursday, we had an even longer excursion. An 11 hour day trip, by coach, to the top of the Northland peninsula to Cape Reinga. It was a shock to the system to get up before 6am when it was still dark. Like the good old work days that I can just about remember. We climbed, half asleep onto the coach at 7.15 and we were driven firstly to a forest to see Kauri trees which are native to NZ. They can grow to huge dimensions and some are thousands of years old. There is only 3% of the original kauri forest left following the early Polynesian / European destruction / use and export and the forest we visited is one of the places where these giant trees can be seen.
After the forest, the coach trip went to the "Ancient Kauri Kingdom". We had expected a tacky, manic tourist stop, but it was in fact a workshop with a very good shop selling decent furniture and arts and crafts. They are using kauri logs which have been discovered in the region and have been carbon dated to be around 45,000 years old. Needless to say, because of the age and the limited supplies of the wood most of the items made are fairly expensive but the wood is beautiful.
After this stop, we then travelled up the West coast of the peninsula and the highway is on the beach - another Ninety Mile Beach that isn't 90 miles long and is classed as a highway where the rules of the road apply. We had of course done a similar journey on Fraser Island, early on in our OZ trip, but at the end of the beach trip, we were taken up a quicksand stream to huge sand dunes. It was here that the brave of heart could take a boogie board and toboggan down the sand dune.
I adopted the role of chief photographer and Rob took on the his new role of action man and trudged up the top of the sand dune with the masses. Next thing he was hurtling down on his stomach (now that was more like it R)and heading back up for a second go. After the second go he said he was starting to feel his age as his maturing body was still delicate after the boon netting the day before and throwing yourself down sand dunes only added to the bumps and bruises.
We were still only half way through the day! Our next stop was the Cape Reinga lighthouse. Cape Reinga is a spiritual place for the Maori who believe that the spirits of the deceased depart to their final resting place from here. From a geographical point of view it is where the Tasman Sea on the West Coast merges with the Pacific on the East. The views of the ocean / sea and surrounding coastline were great.
Leaving the lighthouse, the coach driver took us to a quiet bay for our well earned lunch stop and then we meandered our way back to Paihia. The driver for the day had been great in informing us about all the history of local people and places and the Maori legends. Being a born and bred New Zealander, he made frequent jokes at the expense of the Aussies on the trip. Several "interesting" facts we picked up along the way:
- the kiwi fruit originated in China. Other countries are now producing kiwi fruit so NZ are remarketing theirs under the name zestpre to distinguish theirs.
- a sheep shearer can earn $1.50 per sheep sheared and shear up to 500 a day if they are any good
- the largest kauri tree in NZ could be used to make 19 European homes
On the Friday (18th) it was Rob's birthday. Normally he has to go to work and having a birthday at this time of year means miserable weather and dark afternoons. So this year we were determined to make the most of the day and what better way for him to spend it than on the local golf course in the sunshine.I thought I would go along as caddy and amble round take some photos of the beautiful scenery (the course is on the edge of the bay) and make a few jokes at Rob's expense. However, it turned out to be one of the most stressful mornings of the holiday. No ambling allowed - we walked from hole to hole at break neck speed to avoid slow play as there were people behind us. Well Rob walked, I had to jog to keep up. I thought caddying would be easy - but I couldn't even see the flags on some holes and never had any idea where the ball had landed. There were other players' golf balls coming from all directions and balls coming out of bushes followed by harassed looking men all over the place. For once, I had to shut up and do exactly as Rob told me (a first R)so that I didn't get clunked on the head by an errant golf ball or didn't break any sacred rule of golf etiquette. I haven't seen Rob play golf for a few years and when I last saw him, his shots were very long and very wayward. Now that has changed,(now they are just wayward R) but early on in the round, I still expected to see his ball fly off over the horizon and feared that we would find it with an unconscious fellow golfer underneath. I think he enjoyed the round and although he had aged by a year, I think I aged about 10 that morning. Now I realise how stressful Rob's job was if he used to go and play a round of golf to relax. I thought it was a stroll about with a few mates, whacking a few balls and followed by a few drinks in the club house. Never will I moan about his golf again!(believe it when I see it R)
To finish the day, we had a good dinner in a restaurant right on Paihia wharf with a lovely view along the beach and of some of the islands. Hopefully, this all made up for not seeing friends and family on his birthday.
Our final day in Pahia was low key. The weather changed to cool and windy so we did the 20 minute walk along the beach front to the historical Waitiangi Treaty Grounds. This is where the Maori and the British signed a Treaty in 1840 giving Sovereignty of NZ to the British in exchange for protection of the Maori rights.
We are now heading back towards Auckland for an overnight stop before travelling around to the East Coast of the North Island.
On our first full day we went on a day cruise. Whilst sailing out to the hole in the rock we came across several pods of dolphins. Normally, when we have been on boat trips and they promise dolphins you see one fin for a split second in the water and you count yourself lucky. On this trip we were surrounded by dolphins for at least 30 minutes and the pod included a couple of baby ones too.
After sailing out of the bay into the Pacific to see the eroded rocks, we then went back amongst the islands and the skipper moored up in a quiet bay on one of the undeveloped islands so we could swim, snorkel or just lounge on the beach for lunch. We had a relaxing hour there enjoying the views
Surfing
. On the way back to Paihia, as there were no more sightings of dolphins that people could swim with, he offered the more adventurous on board the chance to boon net (otherwise known as tourist drowning R). Basically, the crew attach a large net to the side of the boat and you can ride through the waves/ wash whilst holding on to the net.
The children went first and then the women were allowed to get into the net. There were a lot of brave souls which was a disadvantage because it meant most of the women were in the middle of the net and the netting lost its shape. As a result they were mostly under the water rather than riding the waves once the skipper sped the boat on.
Watching from the sides made me realise that I had made the wise decision not to have a go as these poor bikini clad girls clung on to the rope for dear life, swallowing gallons of water and not being able to see a thing, plus they were trying to keep their bikini bottoms on and not admit defeat by being the first one to get out. However, I think the men on the boat enjoyed watching the spectacle as they waited for their go.
Rob - my all new action man - decided he wanted to do it, and soon the men were doing their floundering fish impression and clinging desperately to the net as the skipper decided to go even faster. Rob survived but admitted it wasn't much fun as you constantly had a face full of salt water and your arms were nearly wretched out of the sockets holding on to the net but fair play to him, he kept his contact lenses in! Some time later he described himself as "battered" (I'm getting too old for this sort of thing R) which I thought was an appropriate description in the circumstances.There were a few scrages (just for you JC!) and net burns but nothing too serious.
On the Thursday, we had an even longer excursion. An 11 hour day trip, by coach, to the top of the Northland peninsula to Cape Reinga. It was a shock to the system to get up before 6am when it was still dark. Like the good old work days that I can just about remember. We climbed, half asleep onto the coach at 7.15 and we were driven firstly to a forest to see Kauri trees which are native to NZ. They can grow to huge dimensions and some are thousands of years old. There is only 3% of the original kauri forest left following the early Polynesian / European destruction / use and export and the forest we visited is one of the places where these giant trees can be seen.
After the forest, the coach trip went to the "Ancient Kauri Kingdom". We had expected a tacky, manic tourist stop, but it was in fact a workshop with a very good shop selling decent furniture and arts and crafts. They are using kauri logs which have been discovered in the region and have been carbon dated to be around 45,000 years old. Needless to say, because of the age and the limited supplies of the wood most of the items made are fairly expensive but the wood is beautiful.
After this stop, we then travelled up the West coast of the peninsula and the highway is on the beach - another Ninety Mile Beach that isn't 90 miles long and is classed as a highway where the rules of the road apply. We had of course done a similar journey on Fraser Island, early on in our OZ trip, but at the end of the beach trip, we were taken up a quicksand stream to huge sand dunes. It was here that the brave of heart could take a boogie board and toboggan down the sand dune.
I adopted the role of chief photographer and Rob took on the his new role of action man and trudged up the top of the sand dune with the masses. Next thing he was hurtling down on his stomach (now that was more like it R)and heading back up for a second go. After the second go he said he was starting to feel his age as his maturing body was still delicate after the boon netting the day before and throwing yourself down sand dunes only added to the bumps and bruises.
We were still only half way through the day! Our next stop was the Cape Reinga lighthouse. Cape Reinga is a spiritual place for the Maori who believe that the spirits of the deceased depart to their final resting place from here. From a geographical point of view it is where the Tasman Sea on the West Coast merges with the Pacific on the East. The views of the ocean / sea and surrounding coastline were great.
Leaving the lighthouse, the coach driver took us to a quiet bay for our well earned lunch stop and then we meandered our way back to Paihia. The driver for the day had been great in informing us about all the history of local people and places and the Maori legends. Being a born and bred New Zealander, he made frequent jokes at the expense of the Aussies on the trip. Several "interesting" facts we picked up along the way:
- the kiwi fruit originated in China. Other countries are now producing kiwi fruit so NZ are remarketing theirs under the name zestpre to distinguish theirs.
- a sheep shearer can earn $1.50 per sheep sheared and shear up to 500 a day if they are any good
- the largest kauri tree in NZ could be used to make 19 European homes
On the Friday (18th) it was Rob's birthday. Normally he has to go to work and having a birthday at this time of year means miserable weather and dark afternoons. So this year we were determined to make the most of the day and what better way for him to spend it than on the local golf course in the sunshine.I thought I would go along as caddy and amble round take some photos of the beautiful scenery (the course is on the edge of the bay) and make a few jokes at Rob's expense. However, it turned out to be one of the most stressful mornings of the holiday. No ambling allowed - we walked from hole to hole at break neck speed to avoid slow play as there were people behind us. Well Rob walked, I had to jog to keep up. I thought caddying would be easy - but I couldn't even see the flags on some holes and never had any idea where the ball had landed. There were other players' golf balls coming from all directions and balls coming out of bushes followed by harassed looking men all over the place. For once, I had to shut up and do exactly as Rob told me (a first R)so that I didn't get clunked on the head by an errant golf ball or didn't break any sacred rule of golf etiquette. I haven't seen Rob play golf for a few years and when I last saw him, his shots were very long and very wayward. Now that has changed,(now they are just wayward R) but early on in the round, I still expected to see his ball fly off over the horizon and feared that we would find it with an unconscious fellow golfer underneath. I think he enjoyed the round and although he had aged by a year, I think I aged about 10 that morning. Now I realise how stressful Rob's job was if he used to go and play a round of golf to relax. I thought it was a stroll about with a few mates, whacking a few balls and followed by a few drinks in the club house. Never will I moan about his golf again!(believe it when I see it R)
To finish the day, we had a good dinner in a restaurant right on Paihia wharf with a lovely view along the beach and of some of the islands. Hopefully, this all made up for not seeing friends and family on his birthday.
Our final day in Pahia was low key. The weather changed to cool and windy so we did the 20 minute walk along the beach front to the historical Waitiangi Treaty Grounds. This is where the Maori and the British signed a Treaty in 1840 giving Sovereignty of NZ to the British in exchange for protection of the Maori rights.
We are now heading back towards Auckland for an overnight stop before travelling around to the East Coast of the North Island.

