Marahau and the Able Tasman

Trip Start Sep 01, 2005
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Trip End May 11, 2006


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Sunday, January 8, 2006

Marahau is less than 50km from Nelson so I thought I would save myself the bus fare and hitchhike here. It was a lot more difficult than I was expecting. It took me 4 different lifts and quite a lot of walking to make it. Oddly enough I got picked up twice by the same woman, she was the first one to pick me up and also the last one to drop me off.

The Able Tasman is one of New Zealand's most famous hikes, or tramps as they're known here. I saw a book the other day called New Zealands Best 100 Tramps. I think a book in the UK of the same title might have completely different content. My vote would go to the woman on Lord Ship Lane who's not sparing on applying the old lipstick, all over her face. Anyway, I digress. The Able Tasman is on the section of coastline at the very north of the South Island, stretching from Marahau in the south to Wainui in the north. The guide books say the whole thing takes 3 to 4 days but that's only walking 3 or 4 hours each day. I decided to walk from Marahau to Awaroa in 2 days.

The coastline here is absolutely beautiful; clear blue water and golden beaches. Parts of the walk cross large open bays, these therefore have to be navigated at low tide. After working out the walk times and tides times I predicted I could make it to the Bark Bay hut by the end of the first day, 7 1/2 hours walking. The huts are basic. They have beds and water, everything else you have to bring yourself: sleeping bag, cooking equipment, plates, bowls, knifes, forks - of which I have none. I tried to pack food that wouldn't need cooking or could be eaten by hand. I kind of forgot that milk and cereal requires a bowl and spoon. Arse. Banana for breakfast then.

On the second day I got picked up from Awaroa by the water taxi that took me back to Marahau. On the way back we saw a school of dolphins- at last!. I think they were hunting fish and there was a feeding frenzy taking place. There was loads of splashing and some of them were leaping out of the water in unison. Was pretty cool. I got the fishing rod out and it was dolphin for dinner for everyone. Yum!

I've met a Sweedish girl that has a car and is heading in the same direction as me tomorrow and is going to give me a lift down to the Fox Glacier.

At last I have my camera back, my bag strap is repaired, and I have my Australian visa. Things are starting to fall into place. I will probably brake my leg now to compensate.
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