Riobamba to Cuenca (Devil´s Nose train)

Trip Start Mar 18, 2007
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Trip End Mar 16, 2008


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Sunday, April 22, 2007

At 6:30am we caught La Nariz del Diablo (Devilīs Nose) train, which leaves on 3 times a week, and chugged along the rickety old track. This trainline used to connect Quito to Cuenca, but due to the recent (1980s and 1990s) el ninos, the landslides that occurred completely destroyed large sections of the track. The small line between Riobamba and Sibambe was renovated for mostly the tourists to experience the part of the line called the devilīs nose. This is where the train descends from Alausi to Sibambe on a death-defying track called the devilīs nose. This ascent of nearly 1000m could only be made by repeated advancing and reversing up the mountainside and was considered a major engineering feat when it was completed in 1902.

Anyway, enough of the history! We survived the journey and it was a good experience. We were also told that not too long ago 2 japanese tourists died on the train when they didnīt notice a low tv cable which decapitated one and half-decapitated the other Cuenca - Panama Hat museum 1
Cuenca - Panama Hat museum 1
 . Gruesome stuff! Anyway, after that incident we were only allowed to travel on the inside of the train, not on the top like we thought we might. Oh well, at least our heads are still attached!

After the train we caught the bus to Cuenca and arrived later in the day, ready for a nice relaxing sleep. The following days in Cuenca were going to be relaxing... and indeed they were. Only reason being that I got food poisoning from eating chicken wings (very tasty at the time!) and vomiting (from both ends... nice!) for the next 24 hours. All better after getting it out, but was knackered and watched lots of tv in the hostel bed. My first delhi belly, and Iīm sure thereīll be more to come!!

One thing we did do was to meet the oldest panama hat making man in Cuenca (Alberto) whoīs an international legend and makes panama hats for people all over the world. Really sweet guy and after he showed us all his photoalbums of where heīs been, we got a photo together and said adios! Next stop... Vicabamba!
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